There are several treks that begin or end in Spiti Valley, namely Hampta Pass, Pin Bhabha Pass and Kanamo Peak trek. These of course are magnificent treks in their own right and fairly difficult, but I would like to recommend two short hikes, if you are in the Spiti region and want to experience the magnificence of Spiti close and upfront while walking and not in a car. These are perfect for fit, middle aged and senior trekkers who may not want to get into a full scale trek but yearn to hike the rugged and surreal Spiti landscape. Two of the short hikes I did recently during my visit to Spiti with Ongoz Escapades was the Dhankar Valley trek and the Lake Chandratal trek.
The Dhankar Lake Trek
The Dhankar Lake trek is really a hike. Dhankar Lake is situated above the village Dhankar at an elevation of approximately 4140 meters. A taxi from Tabo takes you to the Dhankar village situated on a cliff at the confluence of Pin river & Spiti river and Monastery from where you start the trek. The monastery which definitely warrants a visit ( do this after the trek) is at 3750 metres. Climbing an altitude of 390 metres is difficult at high altitudes.
The Ascent
The trek itself could be classified as a moderately difficult trek as it is mostly a steep uphill hike which can make you fairly breathless and can test your stamina and endurance levels. The path is narrow in parts and at times difficult to traverse. But once you climb past the first 150 metres or so, it levels out and becomes more comfortable. It can get windy and cold as you trek, so do equip yourself with a warm jacket. The ascent to the lake takes little more than an hour.
At the lake
As you turn the final corner , you first notice an ancient stupa and then you get your first vision of the lake. The white stupa or Chorten is almost 10 feet tall and is covered with the layers of prayer flags that flutter in the wind. The lake is oval in shape and changes in size depending on the water from the glacier. The lake is blue green in colour and is clear. The lake is frozen for about eight months of the year and is only accessible from mid-May to September. The shores offer offers breathtaking views of Manirang Peak, the highest peak of Himachal Pradesh located on the border of Kinnaur and Spiti district.
Bathing or putting one’s feet into the lake is forbidden as it is a water source for surrounding villages in the region. There are hills with hiking trails surrounding the lake and if time permits, you could hike up a hill to get a birds eye view of the surroundings. We rest by the lake for an hour or so and enjoy the calm and tranquility. The lake and the surrounding region are home to many types of birds and Himalayan wildlife such as the blue baraal and Ibex.
The Descent
The descent back to the monastery takes us only about 45 minutes but the downhill climb is tough on the knees and takes immense concentration. Half way through I notice that my silver ring that I purchased in Tabo is missing, but to my delight, one of the guides has managed to locate it. I thank the Gods for their kindness and the opportunity to be able to trek to the Lake without experiencing a bout of high altitude sickness.
The Chandratal Hike
Chandratal lake ( Moon lake) at 4287 metres was one of the stops on the old highway used by Tibetan and Ladakhi traders traveling to Kullu and Spiti. It is a small sweet water lake that is also the source of the Chandra river which later on merges with river Chenab. This lake can be accessed both by road and via a trek. The beauty of this lake and the surrounding region is unparalleled, the mountains ( the Chandra Bhaga range) are striated in shades of slate, brown and ochre , interspersed with muddy rivers in varying shades of blue and startling green patches of earth. It is believed that Yudhistra, thr eldest brother of the Pandavas was taken from Chandratal to Heaven by Indra. It is also believed that the lake is visited by fairies at night.
Thr Hampta Pass trek culminates in Chandratal. There is also a 15 kilometre trek from Kumzum Pass which is at an altitude of 4551 metres. The Pass is the main gateway to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. This is a 15 km trek and could take an entire day. There is also the relatively unknown Chandratal Baralacha trek which is difficult and not recommended for beginners. And then there is a 14 km long trek from Batal. Batal, a small village is know for its small dhaba called the ChachaChachi Dhaba which serve the best Alu Parathas and Rajma Chawal. But I am not talking about any of of these treks, as they are difficult and not for everyone. A simple hike will help you absorb the essence of Spiti.
Trekking from the campsite
We drive from Kibber via Kunzum pass to one of the many camp sites near Chandratal ( these are located about 3 kms from the lake). We stay in a Swiss tent with an attached toilet and electricity and it’s extremely comfortable.
While some members of our group opt to travel to Chandratal by car, the rest decide to trek the distance. It takes us close to an hour and a half to travel a distance of three kms. The trail is clear and fairly easy. The mountains and the greenery surrounding it is breathtaking. The trail is not clearly marked and one can get easily lost or miss the lake by taking the wrong turn. It’s best to perhaps take along a guide or a friendly local who knows the region. As we walk we are surrounded by majestic mountains and green meadows. We occasionally come across thickets of wild flowers in pink and violet and coloured stones in vivid hues. And we even see blackened patches of land struck by lighting. As you climb in altitude by about 180 metres to Chandratal you see other glacier fed lakes in the distance. These are fed by the Samudra Tapu glacier, which can be seen in the distance. The area is devoid of any habitation and the stark surreal beauty of the region beguiles your senses.
The Lake
We climb a short hill and the view from the top is a sight to behold and beyond imagination. The lake lies below ringed by hills that change colours as the set descends towards the eastern horizon. The hues in blue and green are mesmerising. We descend towards the lake and as we get near the lapping of the water against the shore and the many stacked stone formations are soothing to the eye. Members of our team who went to Chandratal by car are doing a Parikrama (the action or ritual of moving clockwise round an object of devotion as an indication of reverence).
We spend an hour or more at the lake and reluctantly leave, as twilight descends. It’s closing time and we have to leave the area. We walk to the parking lot and see various signs that warn people not to swim in the lake or to pollute the area. Despite this, we have read recent reports of a visitor who drowned in the lake and we see plastic packets disposed in the vicinity of the lake. It is increasingly important that travellers to ecologically fragile zones such as Spiti and the Himalayan region in general take responsibility and be accountable for their actions and play in role in preserving and protecting our natural heritage sites.
I do hope you enjoyed reading my blog post on the short treks in Spiti. Do let me know if you have any queries on the treks or on Spiti and do continue to like and follow my blog.
