Changing the definition of trekking: An interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part I

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part 1 of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about his love for trekking, his favourite trekking journeys, his tips for beginner trekkers and his trekking venture Ongoz Escapades.
 

Tell us a little bit about your childhood and your first trekking experience

I was born in Kolkata. My father was in the Air Force and inculcated a sense of adventure in me from the time I was young. As a student of the Air Force school, I was often taken on short treks and excursions into the mountains. When I was in the eighth grade, a few of us, students and a teacher, had the opportunity to walk from Dehradun to Mussoorie. It was only a day’s walk but it changed me as a person. It was absolutely fascinating for me to be amidst nature and the mountains. The mountains have always been, not just a source of adventure, but also inspiration, harmony and tranquility.

How did that first trek make you feel?

It awakened within me the realization, even at that young age, that it was the journey that mattered and not the destination. After I reached Mussoorie, I was disappointed that I had reached my destination. The trekking journey was constantly on my mind. I realized that if you have to experience the environment and surroundings, you have to do it slowly and savour it. Walking provides you a holistic experience - the landscape, the air, the trees, the forests and the environment make it so much so much more meaningful.

How did you decide that you wanted trekking to become an occupation and not just a hobby?

I did several treks after my first trek. My first long trek was to Kedarnath with my relatives. It took me two days and I had to carry my own luggage, but it convinced me that this was what I was meant to do. I also trekked to Dzongri (a pitstop on the Goechala trek) and I fell in love with the journey. I have done the Goechala trek 35 times till now and every time is like the first time.  

I took up a corporate job, but  would always wait for the time that I could take leave and travel to the mountains. But that brief period of leave, was too short a time for me. In 2004, I decided that I didn’t want to work in the corporate sector any more, that was not my way of life. I had done several basic and advanced mountaineering courses from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and this gave me an in-depth knowledge about the nature of mountains, and the type of terrain we need to cover, the various  challenges one may face and the type of weather systems one encounters on treks. Most importantly, it taught me about search and rescue and how to lead a lead and coordinate a trek. I felt that I should put my trekking experience and mountaineering skills to good use and decided to start my own trekking company and guide people on treks.
 

What is the most difficult trek that you have done?

Difficulty is a subjective term and it varies depending on the trekker’s physical fitness, stamina, endurance level and technical skills, of course the prevailing weather conditions in the region where one is trekking. For me, the most challenging were the Khalindi Khal  and Green Lake treks. Khalindi starts from Gangotri and ends in Badrinath. It is a trekking expedition which is difficult under the best of circumstances and involves a walk over rough glaciers, rocky screens, and crevassed snowfields. The Green Lake trek, which is the original base camp of Kanchenjunga in North Sikkim has a seven to eight km moraine stretch with no proper path. It is a treacherous and dangerous walk as it involves walking between the boulders. It should only be undertaken by trekkers who have done at least seven to eight high altitude treks at over 5000 meters. I was also once trapped in the snow for two days because of an avalanche, while I was doing the Goechala trek.

What is a trek you’ve always wanted to go on?

 The Trek that I have always wanted to do, but may never materialize is the K2 basecamp trek in Gilgit Baltistan region in Pakistan. Another trek that I couldn’t finish was the Snowman’s trek in Bhutan. It’s a 24-day trek, and I had to bring back a sick trekker after three to four days, as I was a guide on that trek. I hope to do that trek someday. I also want to do the trek from Phalut to Dzongri called the Damphebir La trek where the trail runs parallel to the border with Nepal and some spectacular mountains such as Koktang, Ratong, Kabru and Talung can be seen with the Kanchenjunga Massif in the background. Damphebir is also called a Devil's Pass. The top of the Pass is a famous viewpoint - it gives a panoramic view of Mt Everest towards the left and Mt Kanchenjunga range towards the right. The viewpoint is also surrounded by six alpine lakes at its base. I hope to do these when I get some free time. 

What is the first trek, a trekker should go on?

There are many  treks that are relatively easy and suitable for a first time time trekker, but one of my favourites is the Sandakphu trek. (For more information on Sandakphu, read my blog post on moderate treks.) I have done Sandakphu 98 times with my clients and for many it is their first trek. They have always enjoyed that first experience which introduces them to trekking in a gentle manner. The Sandakphu trek offers the comforts of home like a good comfortable bed, and excellent food at home stays. This is akin to the tea house concept in Nepal. The introduction to trekking therefore is gradual. The journey requires a maximum of six hours of walking per day and the inclines are gradual and the path is easy. And finally, when they reach Sandakphu and see the sleeping Buddha and some of the greatest mountains in the world including Mount Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga and Pandim, it is the best feeling in the world.  Trekkers who enjoy Sandakphu and are able to complete it are now ready for the next level of trekking experiences which can include camping in tents and using a sleeping bag.

What is your advice to first time trekkers?

 

This is a very pertinent question and I would like to mention three key points, that should be ingrained in a trekker’s mind psyche

1. Safety first, glory if possible –It is very important to listen to your guide or tour operator and not make choices that are risky and dangerous. While it is exhilarating to reach your destination, it is important that you should take all necessary precautions and prioritize safety of both yourself and your trekking companions first, before anything else. 

2. Respect the mountains: When we approach the mountain with folded hands and pure love and respect, the mountain welcomes us. If you are only able to go up to a certain point and then return, accept this as the will of the mountain and respect the Mighty Messiah’s command. Every step that we take on its slopes, is a privilege, and permission that has been accorded to us. 

3. Accept and be grateful for all that the mountains give you:  In trekking, it is important to understand your surroundings and that it is never about conquering the mountain, but experiencing all that it offers.  It is never about reaching the destination, but instead experiencing the journey and taking the time to savour and internalize the experience.

 You have taken some truly wonderful photographs while trekking? When and how did you develop your skills in photography and what would be your tips for budding photographers?

 

My father was an ardent photographer and he inculcated in me a love for the DSLR camera and interest in nature photography. A lot of my images were taken while I trekked. Over the years I have invested in photography equipment and am a self- taught photographer.

I have a few simple tips for trekkers who want to take good photographs on their treks

1.     Keep your gear light: Use equipment that do not add considerable extra weight to your trekking equipment. Mirrorless cameras for example, are much lighter. There are several phones with good cameras. Invest in these if you do not want to carry a DSLR camera.

2.     Make use of the light: Choose a time before 9am and after 4pm to shoot as the light in the mountains is best during this period.

3.     Research and amplify your technical skills: There is a lot of information available online and it is important to talk to experts.  Understand the exposure triangle and select the right lens based on what you want to shoot

4.     Study and practice composition: An object can be visualized in many ways and composition makes all the difference. Study the work of professional photographers to understand composition and framing

5.     Choose your locations: Treks provide a variety of locales with spectacular scenery and there is no better way to shoot the mountains than when you are trekking.

6.     Be creative: Photography is a form of art and it is not enough to just have technical skills but also important to have a creative bent of mind to see an image in an unique manner.

Tell us about Ongoz Escapades and how it is different from other trekking companies?

The name Ongoz comes from the Onge tribe which is, indigenous to the Andaman Islands. It can also be read as "On Goes" which denotes continuity. Ongoz offers an immersive experience for people who want to trek and provides a certain comfort factor to trekkers so that the journey becomes a little easier for them. I change the definition of trekking for trekkers who are beginners and are completely inexperienced about the wilderness, by providing certain basic luxuries and acting as a mentor and guide to help them get the best out of such an experience. 

I don’t advertise or market my treks and my organisation via social media or other channels. I rely solely on word-of-mouth references from my clients who have enjoyed the trekking experiences that I have provided. I also don't have fixed departures and prefer to customise my treks for an individual or a group in accordance with their needs. 

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

Do remember to check out part 2 next week, where we talk to Indranil about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector and his forecast for the trekking industry post COVID.