What do you do when COVID derails your treks?

 If you, like me,  haven't been on a trek in the last two years, because COVID has hit the pause button,  it must be a very frustrating and exasperating time. All trekkers have the same question - When is it safe to go trekking again? 

 I do see a light at the end of the tunnel  but you will have to be patient a little longer. Trekking has taken a back seat  for many avid trekkers because of travel restrictions due to COVID or because of adverse climatic conditions ( the rains have played quite a spoiler in the last few months). 

How do you keep the spirt of trekking alive, when you are at home and unable to venture outdoors? How do you retain your connect with the mountains even within the four walls of your house? Here are a few ways to keep the trekking flame alive in your heart even though COVID has derailed your plans.

1. Continue you fitness regimen

Continue your regular fitness program despite not having a trekking goal post in mind. If there has been a break in your exercising due to COVID restrictions or you are recovering from a bout of COVID, ease into exercising through brisk walking for about 20 to 30 minutes. You may then get into a mixed cardio activity which includes gentle jogging and walking. Engaging in functional exercises and yoga are also important. If anything, a daily routine of exercise in some form, will help you retain your health and wellbeing with the knowledge and assurance, that you will be fit to trek when the time comes. Do check out my blog post on 'How do I exercise for a trek?' if you need any tips on trek fitness.

2. Watch trekking videos and documentaries on  You-tube/ social media channels

Watching trekking and mountaineering videos and documentaries has become a regular routine for my husband and me during these trying times of COVID. Post dinner is in front of the TV, watching You-tube videos of some of the toughest treks in India, Nepal and around the world.  Every night we trek the Kalindi Khal trek, (one of the toughest treks in India) or hike the Appalachian trails or climb Mount Aconacagua in Argentina..  I am not going to recommend any one particular you-tube video or channel (just google and you will give several hits), because all of them are interesting.  There is  a mountaineering documentary that deserves a special mention, though - 14 peaks on Netflix which features Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja who climbed the world's fourteen highest peaks within seven months. There are also several 'how to' videos that can help you improve your trekking techniques and help you purchase the right kind of gear for a trek. 

3. Do local hikes

If you cant go to the Himalayas, explore local hikes that are near you city. Do a little research and you will come across several trails  just outside the city limits. Make sure to check if these trails are open and take the necessary permissions and permits from the necessary authorities before you embark on these hikes. 

4. Form a trekkers support group

For all trekkers who suffer from withdrawal symptoms, it is important to be part of a support group. If you regularly trek with others, you already may be part of of  trekking WhatsApp groups. In the last year or so, our  group of trekkers called the Trail Blazers have an active WhatsApp group that regularly  chats and shares stories and visuals and  reminisce about treks we did together. We also occasionally organize virtual  meets that help us connect with each other.

5. Support those employed in the sector

Behind each successful trek is an experienced guide and his support staff consisting of cooks,  horsemen, and the locals who double up as helpers. From serving and managing camp sites, carrying essential loads on their back or managing pack animals, to cooking and serving timely and delicious meals and even serving as a motivators to trekkers when the going gets tough, these support staff serve are lifelines for trekkers.  It wouldn't be a comfortable trek if these "behind the scene" workers weren't around.  The pandemic has derailed the livelihoods of these workers. They deserve our support and help during these trying times. Work with your trekking community to set up a fund or donate to organizations that support community members working in the trekking sector. If you wish to be more personally involved, volunteer your time  and skills to upskill and build the capacities of these support staff, based on their  needs.  

6. Plan your next trek

If you are not able to go on a trek, do the next best thing - PLAN for one. There are many blogs and websites that will provides details on the various treks in India, Nepal and around the world. Identify one that is in keeping with your capabilities and endurance, and discuss it with your trekking  friends and guide. And most importantly, prepare for it.  

So what are you waiting for! its just a matter of months. The best treks are yet to come.

Gandhi could have been a trekker

Today is Gandhi’s birthday and as I head out for my morning walk, it suddenly occurs to me that Gandhi could have been a trekker. Think about it. According to an article in Down to Earth, apparently Gandhi walked 18 kilometres a day for nearly 40 years.  Health records of Gandhi published in the Indian Journal of Medical Research in 2019 reveal that he walked a total of 79,000 km during his political campaigns from 1913 to 1948. Apparently, he disliked traveling by cars or buses and chose to walk everywhere.

For most of his adult life, Gandhi weighed around 100 pounds. He was five-feet-five-inches tall  and his photographs give an impression of frailty. But nothing could be further from the truth. All his life, he kept a gruelling schedule. He travelled incessantly, criss-crossing the country on train and foot. 

He had an amazing capacity to walk and achieved much by walking for miles and connecting with the common man and woman on the ground. 

The Historic Dandi march spanned 240 miles (390 km), from Sabarmati Ashram to Dandi, which was called Navsari at that time (now in the state of Gujarat). Growing numbers of Indians joined them along the way and at one time the crowd was 3 kms long. 

His lathi or walking stick, akin to a trekking pole played a very important role in the march. On 12th March 1930 as Gandhi set out on his historic March to challenge the salt tax, a colleague and friend Kaka Kelekar thought a walking stick might come in handy. This lathi became famous as he walked it with it 10 miles a day, for 24 days. It was a simple bamboo pole 54 inches high from the Malnad region Of Karnataka and made from Nagara Bhetta, a variety of cane where every knot was marked by a natural black spot. 

Gandhi’s foot march to Noakhali and Tipperah districts in Bengal , from November 1946 to February 1947, where he appealed for peace in the aftermath of communal violence is also an amazing exercise of persistence and tenacity . He visited riot torn villages by walking on waterlogged roads and narrow and slippery paths strewn with night soil, deliberately thrown by anti social elements who did not want him to visit. But at 77 years of age, he was determined. He walked barefoot, sleeping every night in a different village, taxing his body even more, as if challenging rioters and his critics to do their maximum, but it would not deter him in his efforts to restore peace.

He was a pioneer in choosing sustainable modes of travel and had very early in his life realised the benefits of walking on the body. While studying law in England (1888-91), he initially stayed as a tenant with an English family. But finding himself short of money, he decided to cut his expenses by half. He took independent rooms of his own, selected so that he could walk to his workplace in half an hour. This allowed him to not only keep his expenses under control but also maintain his health and remain free from illness in England.  When he came to Bombay after his stint in London, he lived in Girgaum. He would walk to the High Court, which took him 45 minutes, and return on foot as well.

“Strength does not come from physical capacity. It comes from an indomitable will” said  Gandhi and for a trekker there could be no truer statement. 

Short Hikes in Spiti

There are several treks  that begin or end in Spiti Valley, namely Hampta Pass, Pin Bhabha Pass and Kanamo Peak trek. These of course are magnificent treks in their own right and fairly difficult, but I would like to recommend two short hikes, if you are in the Spiti region and want to experience the magnificence of Spiti close and upfront while walking and not in a car. These are perfect for fit, middle aged and senior trekkers who may not want to get into a full scale  trek but yearn to hike the rugged and surreal Spiti landscape. Two of the short hikes I did recently during my visit to Spiti with Ongoz Escapades was the Dhankar Valley trek and the Lake Chandratal trek.

The Dhankar Lake Trek

The Dhankar Lake trek is really a hike. Dhankar Lake is situated above the village Dhankar at an elevation of approximately 4140 meters. A taxi from Tabo takes you to the Dhankar village situated on a cliff at the confluence of Pin river & Spiti river and Monastery from where you start the trek. The monastery which definitely warrants a visit ( do this after the trek) is at 3750 metres. Climbing an altitude of 390 metres is difficult at high altitudes. 

The Ascent

The trek itself could be classified as a moderately difficult trek as it is mostly a steep uphill hike which can make you fairly breathless and can test your stamina and endurance levels. The path is narrow in parts and at times difficult to traverse. But once you climb past the first 150 metres or so, it levels out and becomes more comfortable. It can get windy and cold as you trek, so do equip yourself with a warm jacket. The ascent to the lake takes little more than an hour. 

At the lake

As you turn the final corner , you first notice an ancient stupa and then you get your first vision of the lake. The white stupa or Chorten is almost 10 feet tall and is covered with the layers of prayer flags that flutter in the wind. The lake is oval in shape and changes in size depending on the water from the glacier. The lake is blue green in colour and is clear. The lake is frozen for about eight months of the year and is only accessible from mid-May to September. The shores offer offers breathtaking views of Manirang Peak, the highest peak of Himachal Pradesh located on the border of Kinnaur and Spiti district.

Bathing or putting one’s feet into the lake is forbidden as it is a water source for surrounding villages in the region. There are hills with hiking trails surrounding the lake and if time permits, you could hike up a hill to get a birds eye view of the surroundings. We rest by the lake for an hour or so and enjoy the calm and tranquility. The lake and the surrounding region are home to many types of birds and Himalayan wildlife such as the blue baraal and Ibex. 

The Descent

The descent back to the monastery takes us only about 45 minutes but the downhill climb is tough on the knees and takes immense concentration. Half way through I notice that my silver ring that I purchased in Tabo is missing, but to my delight, one of the guides has managed to locate it. I thank the Gods for their kindness and the opportunity to be able to trek to the Lake without experiencing a bout of high altitude sickness.

The Chandratal Hike

Chandratal lake ( Moon lake) at 4287 metres was one of the stops on the old highway used by Tibetan and Ladakhi traders traveling to Kullu and Spiti. It is a small sweet water lake that is also the source of the Chandra river which later on merges with river Chenab. This lake can be accessed both by road and via a trek. The beauty of this lake and the surrounding region is unparalleled, the mountains ( the Chandra Bhaga range) are striated in shades of slate, brown and ochre , interspersed with muddy rivers in varying shades of blue and startling green patches of earth. It is believed that Yudhistra, thr eldest brother of the Pandavas was taken from Chandratal to Heaven by Indra. It is also believed that the lake  is visited by fairies at night. 

Thr Hampta Pass trek culminates in Chandratal. There is also a 15 kilometre trek from Kumzum Pass which is at an altitude of 4551 metres. The Pass is the main gateway to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. This is a 15 km trek and could take an entire day. There is also the relatively unknown Chandratal Baralacha trek which is difficult and not recommended for beginners. And then there is a 14 km long trek from Batal. Batal, a small village is know for its small dhaba called the ChachaChachi Dhaba which serve the best Alu Parathas and Rajma Chawal. But I am not talking about any of of these treks, as they are difficult and not for everyone. A simple hike will help you absorb the essence of Spiti. 

Trekking from the campsite

We drive from Kibber  via Kunzum pass to one of the many camp sites near Chandratal ( these are located about 3 kms from the lake). We stay in a Swiss tent with an attached toilet and electricity and it’s extremely comfortable.  

While some members of our group opt to travel to Chandratal by car, the rest decide to trek the distance. It takes us close to an hour and a half to travel a distance of three kms. The trail is clear and fairly easy. The mountains and the greenery surrounding it is breathtaking. The trail is not clearly marked and one can get easily lost or miss the lake by taking the wrong turn. It’s best to perhaps take along a guide or a friendly local who knows the region. As we walk we are surrounded by majestic mountains and green meadows. We occasionally come across thickets of wild flowers in pink and violet and coloured stones in vivid hues. And we even see blackened patches of  land struck by lighting. As you climb in altitude by about 180 metres to Chandratal you see other glacier fed lakes in the distance. These are fed by the Samudra Tapu glacier, which can be seen in the distance.  The area is devoid of any habitation and the stark surreal beauty of the region beguiles your senses. 

The Lake

We climb a short hill and the view from the top is a sight to behold and beyond imagination. The lake lies below ringed by hills that change colours as the set descends towards the eastern horizon. The hues in blue and green are mesmerising. We descend towards the lake and as we get near the lapping of the water against the shore and the  many stacked stone formations are soothing to the eye. Members of our team who went to Chandratal by car are doing a Parikrama (the action or ritual of moving clockwise round an object of devotion as an indication of reverence). 

We spend an hour or more at the lake and reluctantly leave, as twilight descends. It’s closing time and we have to leave the area. We walk to the parking lot and see various signs that warn people not to swim in the lake or to pollute the area. Despite this, we have read recent reports of a visitor who drowned in the lake and we see plastic packets disposed in the vicinity of the lake. It is increasingly important that travellers to ecologically fragile zones such as Spiti and the Himalayan region in general take responsibility and be accountable for their actions and play in role in preserving and protecting our natural heritage sites.

I do hope you enjoyed reading my blog post on the short treks in Spiti. Do let me know if you have any queries on the treks or on Spiti and do continue to like and follow my blog.

Single or mingle : Should you share a tent on a trek?

 If you are setting out on a trek in India, be prepared to stay in a tent. India, unlike Nepal, does not have tea houses with comfortable beds and attached beds (unless you are doing the Sandakphu trek).  Most trekkers in India who go with a trekking company or guide, give little thought to tents. After all, that is the organizers responsibility. If you are on a low budget hike, you may be instructed on how to set up your own tent and that can be a fun learning process for a twenty something year old who has walked for over eight to nine hours and still has the energy to fix the poles and stake the tent to the ground. If you are keen on doing this, check out this blog post on how to pitch a tent like a pro. But if you are like me, in your fifties and just want to laze around in the camp with a hot cup of chai and garam pakoras, then do go with a trekking company, whose staff would have set up the campground, even before you get there.

To share or not to share a tent is the question

Tents come in all shapes and sizes and can fit anywhere between one to eight persons depending on the size. A vast majority of trekking companies prefer to offer two or three person tents. It definitely, brings down the costs associated with the trek both for the organizer and the client, reduces the burden on pack animals and porters who carry the equipment, is definitely more eco-friendly and reduces the carbon footprint. Besides the very essence of trekking is to rough it out, so a bit of a squeeze and adjustment is the norm. 

But sharing a tent with a fellow trekker has its pros and cons

Building a bond with your tent mates

It can help you build a bond with your fellow tent mates. If you are sharing your tent with your soul mate or partner, then it could be romantic and intimate. If you are an extrovert who connects to people easily, then sharing can be fun. If you are the kind of person who hates sleeping alone in a strange, lonely isolated place, and wants a friend or acquaintance around you, then by all means share a tent.

Do share a tent with a fellow trekker with whom you have a good equation. Giggling and gossiping in the dark before you fall into a deep exhausted exercise induced sleep can be fun.  During my Markha Valley trek, I stayed with a friend who was much taller than me. Neither of us were slim and the tent was small. The tent was a tight fit with both of us in it. We frequently bumped into each other and jostled for space. We fought over space for our trekking bags. Yet we had a great time, laughing about the most trivial things. Two warm bodies also help the tent retain heat and makes you feel safer when you hear strange noises at night.

Claustrophobia and lack of space can be a mood spoiler for tent mates

But if you are the kind of person, who becomes grouchy and cranky after a hard day of trekking and  not in the mood for conversation, then it is not a good idea to share. The tent has to accommodate not just two or three people but their trek bags, sleeping bags and shoes. The atmosphere could quickly become claustrophobic and uncomfortable especially if your tent mate is a new acquaintance and not a friend.  There is barely elbow room as it has and try opening up a trek bag and laying out your items when you have to share space with another person doing the same thing. 

Cost can be a deciding factor

And of course, it also has to do with economics. Are you willing to pay extra to go solo or are you traveling on a budget? Opting for a single tent will definitely cost more and burn a hole in your pocket. Older trekkers who want a more comfortable trekking experience may choose to opt for a single tent, especially if they are solo travelers. It also gives them time away from noisy young trekkers whose energy levels continue to be high even at the end of the day.

Alone in a tent

As you get older, space matters.  For an older trekker, comfort is of utmost importance. I have opted for a single tent on a few treks and have enjoyed the experience. I am happy to get some alone time after I am done with trekking for the day.  It gives me time to reflect on the day’s experiences and make a few notes in a notebook I carry with me. After dinner in the dining tent, I walk back to the cozy environs of my tent and slide into my sleeping bag. I arrange my torch, and my water around me and watch the play of light on the roof of my tent and eventually drift to sleep.

A few years ago, I experienced the pleasure of having a tent all to myself during an all women trek (Druk Path) in Bhutan. Oh, the ecstasy of tossing stuff all around your tent with space to spare, of withdrawing into your own private cocoon with the gentle muffled sounds of the outdoors as your companion, no more elbow jostling or worse with your tent mate, or spending sleepless nights listening to their snores (it’s another matter that snores permeate tent walls but at least they are weakened by the distance they have to travel and barriers they encounter and are sans the booming surround sound experience of a double tent).

A trekking company, that particularly cares for the comforts of the trekkers is a God send. Mr. Wangchuk of Hiking Bhutan Travels made our trek as comfortable as possible.  My tent had the look of a Persian boudoir – a private crawl space that beckons you to put head to pillow (I had a heart shaped one with the words ‘I luv u ‘printed on it which induces a soporific effect.)

The only time I wished for a companion was when the tent quivered and quaked in the wake of a powerful cloud burst, deluged by heavy rain and fierce gusts of wind. I huddled inside invoking the names of all Gods that I remembered. My prayers went unanswered for almost an hour or so; the tent, a refuge that held well against the fury and might of nature. Perhaps the proximity of the Jele Dzong (Buddhist temple) was a saving grace.

I say “Single tent Zindabad” but there are many others who prefer to sleep with a warm body of another trekker by their side. Irrespective of your choice, the experience of staying in a tent is like no other. Now, if they could only do something about the toilet tent. But that’s a story for another day.

 

 

 

How do you pace yourself on a trek?

This is a question that all beginner trekkers have. Setting a pace is very important as it reduces stress and exertion on a trek. Muscles are utilized in a coordinated manner and do not get overtired on a trek. A proper pace will also prevent the need the for unscheduled breaks and will ensure that you walk at a pace that is comfortable yet demanding. Setting a pace can vary from person to person and is dependent on various factors such as your fitness level, your lung capacity, and the length of your stride. Here are a few pointers that a trekker needs to follow when starting on a trek.

Research your trail

Read up on your trek and talk to your guide or other trekkers who have previously done the trek. Understand the elevations attained and the duration of trekking each day before you start on a trek. There will be some easy days and some difficult ones. Have a mental road map as to how you would handle each day. Think about distances that need to be covered on an hourly basis and work on your exercise regimen accordingly. These maps need not be etched in stone as you may find that it is difficult to stick to a plan due to unforeseen challenges, but it definitely allows you to be prepared for the difficult journey ahead.

Set a sustainable pace

When you start a trek, your heart rate is at a resting pace. As you begin to climb (and most trails get into an uphill incline, very quickly) your heart begins to beat faster. Soon your pace begin to slacken as you are not able to walk as fast as when you started. At this stage it is important to decide what your pace is. Slow down and walk at a pace that is comfortable and sustainable.

What is a sustainable pace?

Choose a pace that is comfortable. This varies from person to person.

Choose a pace that allows you to walk continuously for at least two hours (water breaks are fine)

Make sure your overall speed is slow but steady

Give yourself a little extra time when your path is uneven and rocky

Make sure you are not breathless and you can walk and talk

Walk with the group and not ahead of it or lag behind

Many young trekkers have an initial burst of energy and will start off with an overriding enthusiasm to be ahead of the group. But soon their energy flags and they start to falter and get tired easily. Larger groups often break into smaller ones and it is best to be part of one of them depending on your stamina and fitness level. The fitter, more experienced trekkers will often lead the group and sometimes set the pace. If you are a new trekker or have lesser experience, do let the group know. Most groups will be accommodating and ensure that they (or at least some of them) will slow down their pace to ensure that you are able to keep up with them. For the group to stay together, a key rule is to set the pace based on the capacity of the person with the least stamina and fitness level. It is best that beginner hikers walk somewhere in the middle or be the penultimate hiker and not at the end. Strong trekkers before and after the inexperienced trekkers can help set an appropriate pace and ensure that the focus for the beginner is to focus on matching the rhythm of the trekker in front of them.

Align your steps to your breathing

This may be difficult initially, but it is important to match your breathing to each step that you take. The best way to do this is to count each step that you take and attempt to match it with your breath. Initially start with three counts or steps with each breath that you take. With time, you can reduce it to two counts or steps with each breath and finally one count or step with each breath. Your stride can be shortened or lengthened depending on the terrain. But be sure to follow this mantra as it helps set a certain rhythm and cadence to your trekking.

Set a pace by using a technique that sets a rhythm

Use a device such as singing a song or chanting a mantra or a marching cadence to set the pace for trekking.  Sometimes people align their steps and set a pace with the group by singing a song together. This helps you to walk along with a group, ensuring that a similar pace is set and is followed over a duration of time. Swinging your arms back and forth in rhythm will also keep your upper and lower body in sync and in step. Hiking poles are very important and can help enhance rhythm and also help set the pace.

Take short breaks

It is important that the trekker takes breaks at regular intervals but these need to be kept short. A long break or sitting down for an extending period of time can disrupt your trekking routine and cause your muscles to tighten up. Make sure you have a water bladder with a pipe that will enable you to take a sip of water at regular intervals. This will ensure that you do not stop for water breaks on a regular basis.

Slow down with elevation gain or loss

As you move to higher elevations, the air gets thinner and the oxygen levels are low. It is important, even if you are an experienced trekker to slow down your pace and take frequent breaks. In general, an experienced trekker will be able to cover at least 3 to 4.5 kilometers on a fairly well laid out even trail. If you are a beginner, you may be a bit slow, as you make take frequent breaks. It is generally estimated that for each thousand feet of elevation gain you need to add about 50 minutes. Walking downhill can slow you down too and force you to adopt a slower pace as it puts tremendous pressure on your knees and calves and impacts your balance. An additional half hour is estimated for a loss of a thousand feet and even more if the incline is steep and slushy.

Hope you found this blog post on ‘Setting the right pace for a trek’ useful. Do comment on the blog and share with your friends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Ghosts of Goechala: Part II

The Goechala trek has tested our endurance and fitness levels like no other trek has. But I would do it again without a thought if given the opportunity. if you haven't read Part I of my Goechala trek, click here.

Tansing: Ice Station Zebra

We arrived at Tansing and it was a scene right out of ‘Alistair McClean’s Ice Station Zebra’. Anyone who has read the book and / or seen the movie will recall that Drift ice Station Zebra, a meteorological station built on an ice floe in the Arctic Sea, is actually a highly equipped listening post, keeping watch for nuclear missile launches from the Soviet Union. It suffers a catastrophic oil fire; several of its men die, and their shelter and supplies are destroyed. The survivors hole up in one hut with little food and heat.

Tansing could have served as a film set for the movie of the same name starring Rock Hudson. I woke up in the night to pee and asked Anand to accompany me. As we walked out with a lantern in hand, two lone figures bundled in several layers of clothing, my hands shivering as I fumble with my pant buttons, I’m reminded of the opening scene of the movie – a satellite reenters the atmosphere and ejects a capsule which parachutes to the Arctic with specific coordinates. During an ice storm, a figure soon approaches, guided by a homing beacon, while a second person secretly watches from nearby. This does not seem strange to me , we have a group of Japanese camping nearby.

Our last stretch

As I wait for Anand to finish his absolutions, the feeble light thrown by the lamp barely lights a small circle around my feet. It’s a cloudy night and the night is obsidian. I know that there is nothing in the distance barring Mount Pandim and the Eastern flank of Mount Kanchenjunga, looming like a crouched giant. I am nothing but a mere insignificant being at their mercy and the surrounding darkness and imperceptible noises that go with it hammer home that point. Yet it is not menacing, but strangely comforting as I feel the dark wrapping around me like a cocoon, protecting me from cold reality that I must encounter when I go back to civilisation.

We trek to Samiti Lake at a height of 14900 feet; the peace and stillness that I experience at the Lake convince me that deep within the Lake resides a gentle spirit that must surely shower her blessings on the trekkers and tour guides that reverently pray at her shores and respect her territory. Bhaskar and Upasana decide to go up to the Goechala viewpoint while the rest of us decide to head back. At Samiti Lake 4250 metres at the base of Lake Pandim. The guides pray to seek divine blessings from the Lake deity while we take a breather to absorb the rarified atmosphere of this glacial Lake and rest our tired bodies which are experiencing the effects of high altitude. My breathing is laboured and there are the beginnings of a headache at the base of my skull. Mount Kanchenjunga plays a peekaboo behind the clouds.

The Mighty Sentinel

Kanchenjunga is the world’s third highest mountain, with an elevation of 28,169 feet (8,586 metres). It is situated in the eastern Himalayas on the border between Sikkim state, northeastern India, and eastern Nepal, 46 miles (74 km) north-northwest of Darjiling, Sikkim. The Kanchenjunga massif is in the form of a gigantic cross, the arms of which extend north, south, east, and west. The name Kanchenjunga is derived from four words of Tibetan origin, usually rendered Kang-chen-dzo-nga or Yang-chhen-dzö-nga and interpreted in Sikkim as the “Five Treasuries of the Great Snow.” (Sourced from Wikipedia)

The area around Kangchenjunga is said to be home to a mountain deity, called Dzö-nga or “Kangchenjunga Demon”, a type of yeti or rakshasa. A British geological expedition in 1925 spotted a bipedal creature which they asked the locals about, who referred to it as the “Kangchenjunga Demon”. We didn’t spot any though some of us may have closely resembled one as we went for nine days without a bath. We did spot the Ibex, the Blue Bharaal, Wild Yak herds and plenty of rare birds that are native to this Himalayan region As we head back we see an elderly Japanese Gentleman, in his 70s who proudly gestures to us that he has been to the top. Truly an achievement, at 50 I don’t feel that old and feel that I could do a few more treks before I pack up my boots.

The Deceptive Transverse

Back to Kokcharung and Phedang through a deceptive forest transverse trail that begins with an innocuously simple path, but as we proceed further it’s 11 kilometers of steep inclines and descents, narrow trails with precarious edges that plunge into deep ravines and landslide scarred slopes that have to be crossed with loose mud dribbling onto your path. The path is never ending and we curse our guide Indranil who was never completely truthful about the trails we walked. “You’ll find it boring”” he said but that was the last word that enters my mind to describe the treacherous path that we are walking on. My fellow trekker, Jayanthi and I question our fellow guides Bhanu and Limbu as to how much time it would take and when they respond saying that it would take one more hour of walking, we angrily argue with them and insist that they are talking through their hats. They look at us pityingly and break into Nepali. I interpret it as “God, why do these old women do the trek if they can’t handle it” Jay sets out at a furious pace like a banshee cursing Indraneel and I am on the verge of a breakdown, silently laughing to myself at the sheer audacity of the narrow track as it leads us on on a merry dance. Anand looks at me strangely and gently asks me to take a break and drink some water. Our track finally break into the familiar meadows of Phedang and I totter to the now waiting group exhausted and waiting to pick a fight with anyone who utters those dreadfully pedestrian words “ Welcome, you made it”

The Last Ghost Story

Post a hasty lunch, we walk down to Tsoka through slush. Along the pathway, eager leaches are on the look out to sink their fangs ( do they have those) into our luscious flesh, but we manage to escape them. At Tsoka, it’s time for a celebration. While we feast on many a delectable dishes ( did I mention that our cook is the best in Sikkim) and have a few shots of Sikkimese rum and beer ( we drink Hit beer from the breweries owned by Sikkim’s scion Danny Denzongpa), Indranil regales us with the best story of all, the Naked German. The Naked German was a trekker who died in the 1980’s sans his clothes, ( don’t ask me how, I was too drunk to remember or maybe Indranil omitted the details). Apparently his ghost knocks on door or tent flaps and attempts to steal trekking bags. Indranil at some point in his career as a trek organiser apparently decided to put this story to test by staying all by himself at the Kokcharung trekkers hut that the ghost frequents. He had fortified himself with an entire bottle of rum and was woken up late in the night by repeated knocks on the door of the hut. Convinced that his worst nightmare had come true, he hid in the furtherest corner with a sharp Khukri ( Gurkha dagger) in his hand. No one responded to his entreaties questioning the identity of the knocker. Early next morning, he opens the day to confront a horsemen who was deaf and mute and had been sent by his fellow team members to check on him. Do you believe this story? On hindsight I definitely don’t, but at that moment gathered around a table lit by head lamps and lanterns, and sweetly savouring our triumph over the challenging and treacherous trails and replete with delicious food, dessert ( yes, chocolate cake baked in an earthen oven) and drink, we believed anything and everything was possible, even ghosts.

The Last Day

Our last day was our longest, 16 kms of endless walking back to Yuksom, we walked as if we were automatons, one foot placed before the other, tired in body but never in spirit. At long last as we approached the village on the outskirts that would eventually lead us to the paved road of Yuksom, I turned back and said a final goodbye to the mountains, trees and even the Ghosts and Spirits who had welcomed us into an ethereal and effervescent world that now vanished like Brigadoon into the mists of time.

Hope you enjoyed my reminiscences of the Goechala trek. Please read Part I if you haven't. Ans as always, comment, follow and share.

The Ghosts of Goechala: Part I

 Good treks are about endurance, fitness and strength but also about the camaraderie of fellow trekkers and the stories you share on those dark chilly nights. This is not a faithful retelling of the trek ( there are enough blogs that do that but rather an anecdotal and sometimes humorous and somber account of my experiences and emotions. 

The Goechala Gang

We were eight of us on the Goechala trek – Priti and Raja, super fit trekker couple who had just completed a long difficult trek in Nepal and were rearing to take this on, Upasana – supremely fit yoga trainer and second time trekker ( she did ABC with us last time) and was ahead of all my of us including the guides, my sister Aarti who cribbed before the trek that she would never be able to do it and did it like a pro ( did I mention that she is tall, statuesque and trekking clothes look good on her unlike me who looks like a bit like the Hunch back of Norte Dame); my friend and fellow organiser and conspirator , Jayanthi who kept us entertained and rearing to go despite the challenges, Anand, my better half who was indifferent till the trek started and then waxed eloquent on every aspect of it for weeks to come and is a fount of stats and numbers on altitude, distance and anything in between. 

Bhaskar, the new comer to the group, who had seriously trained ( unlike the rest of us) for this trek , was a bit formal at first and finally loosened up with the help of ‘spirits’ to to sing Kannada gems and oh did I mention the ace photographer of the group and then finally me, the organiser and the slowest trekker, (the spirit is willing, but the flesh is weak.) I creak and crawl while the others race past, but the trek starts as an idea in my head ( and Jay’s). So I give myself extra brownie points for that. And of course, we had Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades whom I contacted on a whim based on a blog post I read. That turned out to be the best thing I did, because he turned out better than warm apple pie with ice cream – guide, DJ, philosopher, story teller and comedian and finally has now become good friend to all in the group.

The Ghosts of Goechala

As we huddled around a warm wood fire oven in the caretakers hut at Dzongri sipping the local millet beer, we heard stories about heroic feats and near death experiences of guides and trekkers and WAIT FOR It spine tingling ghost stories that will strike fear into your hearts. Surely they are exaggerated but make for great listening; anything that takes your mind away from the bone numbing cold and the thought of slipping into an ice cold sleeping bag at the end of the day despite several layers of clothing. A good dose of healthy fear increases your heart rate and your sluggish blood races and thrums through your arteries and veins, inducing a sense of heightened anticipation and brief flashes of heat. And so we heard Ghost stories in instalments. Hearing it at one go may give us a ‘heart burst’ as Indranil puts it.

Our first day

But I am getting ahead of myself. We first heard about the ghosts of the dancing girls at night on the 4th bridge (or was it the 3rd bridge) during our first day to Sachen. This I think was the bridge below which the Prek Chu river was gushing wildly through a steep gorge. The suspension bridge shook as I walked over it. Thump thump thump,and then a sway. I felt slightly nauseous looking at the deep gorge below. Nima Thaju our head guide told us about a guide who went down to the river to have a bath at this very spot and slipped on  a cake of soap he had kept aside and was swept away by the river. The guides said these stories with a certain relish as our faces turned a bit pale and we looked at each other uncertainly. The trek had a fearsome reputation of bringing trekkers to their knees; did we have to also contend with ghosts and the like?

Gory stories at Phedang

Sachen to Tsoka was difficult but the real test was yet to come. After our first night in tents, we opted for the trekker huts in Tsoka, we were afraid that the rain might wash the tents away. From Tsoka, after a difficult ascent, which never seemed to end, we finally arrived at Phedang. Phedang at 12000 feet is a green slushy meadow with an open hut which serves as a dining room. Given a choice, I was all ready to spend the night there; there was a another steady incline of 3 hours to Deorali top and then a slight descent to Dzongri at 13000 feet. But during lunch, Indranil regaled us with the stories of two porters who died in a fire that engulfed the wooden hut they were spending the night. Since that event, most trekking guides and porters are superstitious and bypass Phedang as a place to halt at night. It is believed that those who stay are woken by a (symbolic) knock on their tent flaps and when they open it are witness to the horrifying and terrifying sight of blackened charred faces staring at them. That was enough to get me scampering from there post lunch and do the tough climb to Deorali top where the skies opened up to reveal enchanting Mount Pandim.

A hard descent

After a day’s rest at Dzongri and a near dizzying climb to Dzongri top at 13778 feet ( saying it in feet rather than metres makes our trek seem like a more impossible feat than it already is), where we walked on narrow ledges and steep ascents ( one wrong step and we would have indeed become ghosts who haunted future trekkers to Dzongri) we did a steep descent to Kokchurang. The descent was the scariest part of the trek and even now I get the heebejeebies thinking about it. I held my guide Limbu’s hands 90 percent of the way as I’m notoriously bad at walking downhill. Even Limbu’s wife or significant other wouldn’t have held his hand for that long. Even if a spirit in the surrounding thick forests were to prance around or shout or scream to make its presence felt, I wouldn’t have lifted my head, so fierce was my concentration on the tricky path ahead. I saw colourful birds flit between the trees and tried to make a note of their colour and size to quiz Bhaskar who seemed to be a walking talking encyclopaedia on birds and has even downloaded a pdf on birds on his phone.I breathed a sign of relief as we reached level ground and the Kokcharung trekkers hut came into view. It was a small squalid nut with several suffocatingly small rooms. We had our delicious hot lunch and proceeded to Tansing. The trail from Kokcharung to Tansing was not easy but anything was better than the nightmare descent that I had gone through

I do hope you enjoyed reading about the Goechala trek this far. Read Part 2 of the Ghosts of Goechala next week. And do comment and share my blog post with your family and friends