Changing the definition of trekking: An interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part I

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part 1 of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about his love for trekking, his favourite trekking journeys, his tips for beginner trekkers and his trekking venture Ongoz Escapades.
 

Tell us a little bit about your childhood and your first trekking experience

I was born in Kolkata. My father was in the Air Force and inculcated a sense of adventure in me from the time I was young. As a student of the Air Force school, I was often taken on short treks and excursions into the mountains. When I was in the eighth grade, a few of us, students and a teacher, had the opportunity to walk from Dehradun to Mussoorie. It was only a day’s walk but it changed me as a person. It was absolutely fascinating for me to be amidst nature and the mountains. The mountains have always been, not just a source of adventure, but also inspiration, harmony and tranquility.

How did that first trek make you feel?

It awakened within me the realization, even at that young age, that it was the journey that mattered and not the destination. After I reached Mussoorie, I was disappointed that I had reached my destination. The trekking journey was constantly on my mind. I realized that if you have to experience the environment and surroundings, you have to do it slowly and savour it. Walking provides you a holistic experience - the landscape, the air, the trees, the forests and the environment make it so much so much more meaningful.

How did you decide that you wanted trekking to become an occupation and not just a hobby?

I did several treks after my first trek. My first long trek was to Kedarnath with my relatives. It took me two days and I had to carry my own luggage, but it convinced me that this was what I was meant to do. I also trekked to Dzongri (a pitstop on the Goechala trek) and I fell in love with the journey. I have done the Goechala trek 35 times till now and every time is like the first time.  

I took up a corporate job, but  would always wait for the time that I could take leave and travel to the mountains. But that brief period of leave, was too short a time for me. In 2004, I decided that I didn’t want to work in the corporate sector any more, that was not my way of life. I had done several basic and advanced mountaineering courses from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and this gave me an in-depth knowledge about the nature of mountains, and the type of terrain we need to cover, the various  challenges one may face and the type of weather systems one encounters on treks. Most importantly, it taught me about search and rescue and how to lead a lead and coordinate a trek. I felt that I should put my trekking experience and mountaineering skills to good use and decided to start my own trekking company and guide people on treks.
 

What is the most difficult trek that you have done?

Difficulty is a subjective term and it varies depending on the trekker’s physical fitness, stamina, endurance level and technical skills, of course the prevailing weather conditions in the region where one is trekking. For me, the most challenging were the Khalindi Khal  and Green Lake treks. Khalindi starts from Gangotri and ends in Badrinath. It is a trekking expedition which is difficult under the best of circumstances and involves a walk over rough glaciers, rocky screens, and crevassed snowfields. The Green Lake trek, which is the original base camp of Kanchenjunga in North Sikkim has a seven to eight km moraine stretch with no proper path. It is a treacherous and dangerous walk as it involves walking between the boulders. It should only be undertaken by trekkers who have done at least seven to eight high altitude treks at over 5000 meters. I was also once trapped in the snow for two days because of an avalanche, while I was doing the Goechala trek.

What is a trek you’ve always wanted to go on?

 The Trek that I have always wanted to do, but may never materialize is the K2 basecamp trek in Gilgit Baltistan region in Pakistan. Another trek that I couldn’t finish was the Snowman’s trek in Bhutan. It’s a 24-day trek, and I had to bring back a sick trekker after three to four days, as I was a guide on that trek. I hope to do that trek someday. I also want to do the trek from Phalut to Dzongri called the Damphebir La trek where the trail runs parallel to the border with Nepal and some spectacular mountains such as Koktang, Ratong, Kabru and Talung can be seen with the Kanchenjunga Massif in the background. Damphebir is also called a Devil's Pass. The top of the Pass is a famous viewpoint - it gives a panoramic view of Mt Everest towards the left and Mt Kanchenjunga range towards the right. The viewpoint is also surrounded by six alpine lakes at its base. I hope to do these when I get some free time. 

What is the first trek, a trekker should go on?

There are many  treks that are relatively easy and suitable for a first time time trekker, but one of my favourites is the Sandakphu trek. (For more information on Sandakphu, read my blog post on moderate treks.) I have done Sandakphu 98 times with my clients and for many it is their first trek. They have always enjoyed that first experience which introduces them to trekking in a gentle manner. The Sandakphu trek offers the comforts of home like a good comfortable bed, and excellent food at home stays. This is akin to the tea house concept in Nepal. The introduction to trekking therefore is gradual. The journey requires a maximum of six hours of walking per day and the inclines are gradual and the path is easy. And finally, when they reach Sandakphu and see the sleeping Buddha and some of the greatest mountains in the world including Mount Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga and Pandim, it is the best feeling in the world.  Trekkers who enjoy Sandakphu and are able to complete it are now ready for the next level of trekking experiences which can include camping in tents and using a sleeping bag.

What is your advice to first time trekkers?

 

This is a very pertinent question and I would like to mention three key points, that should be ingrained in a trekker’s mind psyche

1. Safety first, glory if possible –It is very important to listen to your guide or tour operator and not make choices that are risky and dangerous. While it is exhilarating to reach your destination, it is important that you should take all necessary precautions and prioritize safety of both yourself and your trekking companions first, before anything else. 

2. Respect the mountains: When we approach the mountain with folded hands and pure love and respect, the mountain welcomes us. If you are only able to go up to a certain point and then return, accept this as the will of the mountain and respect the Mighty Messiah’s command. Every step that we take on its slopes, is a privilege, and permission that has been accorded to us. 

3. Accept and be grateful for all that the mountains give you:  In trekking, it is important to understand your surroundings and that it is never about conquering the mountain, but experiencing all that it offers.  It is never about reaching the destination, but instead experiencing the journey and taking the time to savour and internalize the experience.

 You have taken some truly wonderful photographs while trekking? When and how did you develop your skills in photography and what would be your tips for budding photographers?

 

My father was an ardent photographer and he inculcated in me a love for the DSLR camera and interest in nature photography. A lot of my images were taken while I trekked. Over the years I have invested in photography equipment and am a self- taught photographer.

I have a few simple tips for trekkers who want to take good photographs on their treks

1.     Keep your gear light: Use equipment that do not add considerable extra weight to your trekking equipment. Mirrorless cameras for example, are much lighter. There are several phones with good cameras. Invest in these if you do not want to carry a DSLR camera.

2.     Make use of the light: Choose a time before 9am and after 4pm to shoot as the light in the mountains is best during this period.

3.     Research and amplify your technical skills: There is a lot of information available online and it is important to talk to experts.  Understand the exposure triangle and select the right lens based on what you want to shoot

4.     Study and practice composition: An object can be visualized in many ways and composition makes all the difference. Study the work of professional photographers to understand composition and framing

5.     Choose your locations: Treks provide a variety of locales with spectacular scenery and there is no better way to shoot the mountains than when you are trekking.

6.     Be creative: Photography is a form of art and it is not enough to just have technical skills but also important to have a creative bent of mind to see an image in an unique manner.

Tell us about Ongoz Escapades and how it is different from other trekking companies?

The name Ongoz comes from the Onge tribe which is, indigenous to the Andaman Islands. It can also be read as "On Goes" which denotes continuity. Ongoz offers an immersive experience for people who want to trek and provides a certain comfort factor to trekkers so that the journey becomes a little easier for them. I change the definition of trekking for trekkers who are beginners and are completely inexperienced about the wilderness, by providing certain basic luxuries and acting as a mentor and guide to help them get the best out of such an experience. 

I don’t advertise or market my treks and my organisation via social media or other channels. I rely solely on word-of-mouth references from my clients who have enjoyed the trekking experiences that I have provided. I also don't have fixed departures and prefer to customise my treks for an individual or a group in accordance with their needs. 

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

Do remember to check out part 2 next week, where we talk to Indranil about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector and his forecast for the trekking industry post COVID.

What do you do when COVID derails your treks?

 If you, like me,  haven't been on a trek in the last two years, because COVID has hit the pause button,  it must be a very frustrating and exasperating time. All trekkers have the same question - When is it safe to go trekking again? 

 I do see a light at the end of the tunnel  but you will have to be patient a little longer. Trekking has taken a back seat  for many avid trekkers because of travel restrictions due to COVID or because of adverse climatic conditions ( the rains have played quite a spoiler in the last few months). 

How do you keep the spirt of trekking alive, when you are at home and unable to venture outdoors? How do you retain your connect with the mountains even within the four walls of your house? Here are a few ways to keep the trekking flame alive in your heart even though COVID has derailed your plans.

1. Continue you fitness regimen

Continue your regular fitness program despite not having a trekking goal post in mind. If there has been a break in your exercising due to COVID restrictions or you are recovering from a bout of COVID, ease into exercising through brisk walking for about 20 to 30 minutes. You may then get into a mixed cardio activity which includes gentle jogging and walking. Engaging in functional exercises and yoga are also important. If anything, a daily routine of exercise in some form, will help you retain your health and wellbeing with the knowledge and assurance, that you will be fit to trek when the time comes. Do check out my blog post on 'How do I exercise for a trek?' if you need any tips on trek fitness.

2. Watch trekking videos and documentaries on  You-tube/ social media channels

Watching trekking and mountaineering videos and documentaries has become a regular routine for my husband and me during these trying times of COVID. Post dinner is in front of the TV, watching You-tube videos of some of the toughest treks in India, Nepal and around the world.  Every night we trek the Kalindi Khal trek, (one of the toughest treks in India) or hike the Appalachian trails or climb Mount Aconacagua in Argentina..  I am not going to recommend any one particular you-tube video or channel (just google and you will give several hits), because all of them are interesting.  There is  a mountaineering documentary that deserves a special mention, though - 14 peaks on Netflix which features Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja who climbed the world's fourteen highest peaks within seven months. There are also several 'how to' videos that can help you improve your trekking techniques and help you purchase the right kind of gear for a trek. 

3. Do local hikes

If you cant go to the Himalayas, explore local hikes that are near you city. Do a little research and you will come across several trails  just outside the city limits. Make sure to check if these trails are open and take the necessary permissions and permits from the necessary authorities before you embark on these hikes. 

4. Form a trekkers support group

For all trekkers who suffer from withdrawal symptoms, it is important to be part of a support group. If you regularly trek with others, you already may be part of of  trekking WhatsApp groups. In the last year or so, our  group of trekkers called the Trail Blazers have an active WhatsApp group that regularly  chats and shares stories and visuals and  reminisce about treks we did together. We also occasionally organize virtual  meets that help us connect with each other.

5. Support those employed in the sector

Behind each successful trek is an experienced guide and his support staff consisting of cooks,  horsemen, and the locals who double up as helpers. From serving and managing camp sites, carrying essential loads on their back or managing pack animals, to cooking and serving timely and delicious meals and even serving as a motivators to trekkers when the going gets tough, these support staff serve are lifelines for trekkers.  It wouldn't be a comfortable trek if these "behind the scene" workers weren't around.  The pandemic has derailed the livelihoods of these workers. They deserve our support and help during these trying times. Work with your trekking community to set up a fund or donate to organizations that support community members working in the trekking sector. If you wish to be more personally involved, volunteer your time  and skills to upskill and build the capacities of these support staff, based on their  needs.  

6. Plan your next trek

If you are not able to go on a trek, do the next best thing - PLAN for one. There are many blogs and websites that will provides details on the various treks in India, Nepal and around the world. Identify one that is in keeping with your capabilities and endurance, and discuss it with your trekking  friends and guide. And most importantly, prepare for it.  

So what are you waiting for! its just a matter of months. The best treks are yet to come.

Gandhi could have been a trekker

Today is Gandhi’s birthday and as I head out for my morning walk, it suddenly occurs to me that Gandhi could have been a trekker. Think about it. According to an article in Down to Earth, apparently Gandhi walked 18 kilometres a day for nearly 40 years.  Health records of Gandhi published in the Indian Journal of Medical Research in 2019 reveal that he walked a total of 79,000 km during his political campaigns from 1913 to 1948. Apparently, he disliked traveling by cars or buses and chose to walk everywhere.

For most of his adult life, Gandhi weighed around 100 pounds. He was five-feet-five-inches tall  and his photographs give an impression of frailty. But nothing could be further from the truth. All his life, he kept a gruelling schedule. He travelled incessantly, criss-crossing the country on train and foot. 

He had an amazing capacity to walk and achieved much by walking for miles and connecting with the common man and woman on the ground. 

The Historic Dandi march spanned 240 miles (390 km), from Sabarmati Ashram to Dandi, which was called Navsari at that time (now in the state of Gujarat). Growing numbers of Indians joined them along the way and at one time the crowd was 3 kms long. 

His lathi or walking stick, akin to a trekking pole played a very important role in the march. On 12th March 1930 as Gandhi set out on his historic March to challenge the salt tax, a colleague and friend Kaka Kelekar thought a walking stick might come in handy. This lathi became famous as he walked it with it 10 miles a day, for 24 days. It was a simple bamboo pole 54 inches high from the Malnad region Of Karnataka and made from Nagara Bhetta, a variety of cane where every knot was marked by a natural black spot. 

Gandhi’s foot march to Noakhali and Tipperah districts in Bengal , from November 1946 to February 1947, where he appealed for peace in the aftermath of communal violence is also an amazing exercise of persistence and tenacity . He visited riot torn villages by walking on waterlogged roads and narrow and slippery paths strewn with night soil, deliberately thrown by anti social elements who did not want him to visit. But at 77 years of age, he was determined. He walked barefoot, sleeping every night in a different village, taxing his body even more, as if challenging rioters and his critics to do their maximum, but it would not deter him in his efforts to restore peace.

He was a pioneer in choosing sustainable modes of travel and had very early in his life realised the benefits of walking on the body. While studying law in England (1888-91), he initially stayed as a tenant with an English family. But finding himself short of money, he decided to cut his expenses by half. He took independent rooms of his own, selected so that he could walk to his workplace in half an hour. This allowed him to not only keep his expenses under control but also maintain his health and remain free from illness in England.  When he came to Bombay after his stint in London, he lived in Girgaum. He would walk to the High Court, which took him 45 minutes, and return on foot as well.

“Strength does not come from physical capacity. It comes from an indomitable will” said  Gandhi and for a trekker there could be no truer statement. 

Short Hikes in Spiti

There are several treks  that begin or end in Spiti Valley, namely Hampta Pass, Pin Bhabha Pass and Kanamo Peak trek. These of course are magnificent treks in their own right and fairly difficult, but I would like to recommend two short hikes, if you are in the Spiti region and want to experience the magnificence of Spiti close and upfront while walking and not in a car. These are perfect for fit, middle aged and senior trekkers who may not want to get into a full scale  trek but yearn to hike the rugged and surreal Spiti landscape. Two of the short hikes I did recently during my visit to Spiti with Ongoz Escapades was the Dhankar Valley trek and the Lake Chandratal trek.

The Dhankar Lake Trek

The Dhankar Lake trek is really a hike. Dhankar Lake is situated above the village Dhankar at an elevation of approximately 4140 meters. A taxi from Tabo takes you to the Dhankar village situated on a cliff at the confluence of Pin river & Spiti river and Monastery from where you start the trek. The monastery which definitely warrants a visit ( do this after the trek) is at 3750 metres. Climbing an altitude of 390 metres is difficult at high altitudes. 

The Ascent

The trek itself could be classified as a moderately difficult trek as it is mostly a steep uphill hike which can make you fairly breathless and can test your stamina and endurance levels. The path is narrow in parts and at times difficult to traverse. But once you climb past the first 150 metres or so, it levels out and becomes more comfortable. It can get windy and cold as you trek, so do equip yourself with a warm jacket. The ascent to the lake takes little more than an hour. 

At the lake

As you turn the final corner , you first notice an ancient stupa and then you get your first vision of the lake. The white stupa or Chorten is almost 10 feet tall and is covered with the layers of prayer flags that flutter in the wind. The lake is oval in shape and changes in size depending on the water from the glacier. The lake is blue green in colour and is clear. The lake is frozen for about eight months of the year and is only accessible from mid-May to September. The shores offer offers breathtaking views of Manirang Peak, the highest peak of Himachal Pradesh located on the border of Kinnaur and Spiti district.

Bathing or putting one’s feet into the lake is forbidden as it is a water source for surrounding villages in the region. There are hills with hiking trails surrounding the lake and if time permits, you could hike up a hill to get a birds eye view of the surroundings. We rest by the lake for an hour or so and enjoy the calm and tranquility. The lake and the surrounding region are home to many types of birds and Himalayan wildlife such as the blue baraal and Ibex. 

The Descent

The descent back to the monastery takes us only about 45 minutes but the downhill climb is tough on the knees and takes immense concentration. Half way through I notice that my silver ring that I purchased in Tabo is missing, but to my delight, one of the guides has managed to locate it. I thank the Gods for their kindness and the opportunity to be able to trek to the Lake without experiencing a bout of high altitude sickness.

The Chandratal Hike

Chandratal lake ( Moon lake) at 4287 metres was one of the stops on the old highway used by Tibetan and Ladakhi traders traveling to Kullu and Spiti. It is a small sweet water lake that is also the source of the Chandra river which later on merges with river Chenab. This lake can be accessed both by road and via a trek. The beauty of this lake and the surrounding region is unparalleled, the mountains ( the Chandra Bhaga range) are striated in shades of slate, brown and ochre , interspersed with muddy rivers in varying shades of blue and startling green patches of earth. It is believed that Yudhistra, thr eldest brother of the Pandavas was taken from Chandratal to Heaven by Indra. It is also believed that the lake  is visited by fairies at night. 

Thr Hampta Pass trek culminates in Chandratal. There is also a 15 kilometre trek from Kumzum Pass which is at an altitude of 4551 metres. The Pass is the main gateway to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. This is a 15 km trek and could take an entire day. There is also the relatively unknown Chandratal Baralacha trek which is difficult and not recommended for beginners. And then there is a 14 km long trek from Batal. Batal, a small village is know for its small dhaba called the ChachaChachi Dhaba which serve the best Alu Parathas and Rajma Chawal. But I am not talking about any of of these treks, as they are difficult and not for everyone. A simple hike will help you absorb the essence of Spiti. 

Trekking from the campsite

We drive from Kibber  via Kunzum pass to one of the many camp sites near Chandratal ( these are located about 3 kms from the lake). We stay in a Swiss tent with an attached toilet and electricity and it’s extremely comfortable.  

While some members of our group opt to travel to Chandratal by car, the rest decide to trek the distance. It takes us close to an hour and a half to travel a distance of three kms. The trail is clear and fairly easy. The mountains and the greenery surrounding it is breathtaking. The trail is not clearly marked and one can get easily lost or miss the lake by taking the wrong turn. It’s best to perhaps take along a guide or a friendly local who knows the region. As we walk we are surrounded by majestic mountains and green meadows. We occasionally come across thickets of wild flowers in pink and violet and coloured stones in vivid hues. And we even see blackened patches of  land struck by lighting. As you climb in altitude by about 180 metres to Chandratal you see other glacier fed lakes in the distance. These are fed by the Samudra Tapu glacier, which can be seen in the distance.  The area is devoid of any habitation and the stark surreal beauty of the region beguiles your senses. 

The Lake

We climb a short hill and the view from the top is a sight to behold and beyond imagination. The lake lies below ringed by hills that change colours as the set descends towards the eastern horizon. The hues in blue and green are mesmerising. We descend towards the lake and as we get near the lapping of the water against the shore and the  many stacked stone formations are soothing to the eye. Members of our team who went to Chandratal by car are doing a Parikrama (the action or ritual of moving clockwise round an object of devotion as an indication of reverence). 

We spend an hour or more at the lake and reluctantly leave, as twilight descends. It’s closing time and we have to leave the area. We walk to the parking lot and see various signs that warn people not to swim in the lake or to pollute the area. Despite this, we have read recent reports of a visitor who drowned in the lake and we see plastic packets disposed in the vicinity of the lake. It is increasingly important that travellers to ecologically fragile zones such as Spiti and the Himalayan region in general take responsibility and be accountable for their actions and play in role in preserving and protecting our natural heritage sites.

I do hope you enjoyed reading my blog post on the short treks in Spiti. Do let me know if you have any queries on the treks or on Spiti and do continue to like and follow my blog.

Single or mingle : Should you share a tent on a trek?

 If you are setting out on a trek in India, be prepared to stay in a tent. India, unlike Nepal, does not have tea houses with comfortable beds and attached beds (unless you are doing the Sandakphu trek).  Most trekkers in India who go with a trekking company or guide, give little thought to tents. After all, that is the organizers responsibility. If you are on a low budget hike, you may be instructed on how to set up your own tent and that can be a fun learning process for a twenty something year old who has walked for over eight to nine hours and still has the energy to fix the poles and stake the tent to the ground. If you are keen on doing this, check out this blog post on how to pitch a tent like a pro. But if you are like me, in your fifties and just want to laze around in the camp with a hot cup of chai and garam pakoras, then do go with a trekking company, whose staff would have set up the campground, even before you get there.

To share or not to share a tent is the question

Tents come in all shapes and sizes and can fit anywhere between one to eight persons depending on the size. A vast majority of trekking companies prefer to offer two or three person tents. It definitely, brings down the costs associated with the trek both for the organizer and the client, reduces the burden on pack animals and porters who carry the equipment, is definitely more eco-friendly and reduces the carbon footprint. Besides the very essence of trekking is to rough it out, so a bit of a squeeze and adjustment is the norm. 

But sharing a tent with a fellow trekker has its pros and cons

Building a bond with your tent mates

It can help you build a bond with your fellow tent mates. If you are sharing your tent with your soul mate or partner, then it could be romantic and intimate. If you are an extrovert who connects to people easily, then sharing can be fun. If you are the kind of person who hates sleeping alone in a strange, lonely isolated place, and wants a friend or acquaintance around you, then by all means share a tent.

Do share a tent with a fellow trekker with whom you have a good equation. Giggling and gossiping in the dark before you fall into a deep exhausted exercise induced sleep can be fun.  During my Markha Valley trek, I stayed with a friend who was much taller than me. Neither of us were slim and the tent was small. The tent was a tight fit with both of us in it. We frequently bumped into each other and jostled for space. We fought over space for our trekking bags. Yet we had a great time, laughing about the most trivial things. Two warm bodies also help the tent retain heat and makes you feel safer when you hear strange noises at night.

Claustrophobia and lack of space can be a mood spoiler for tent mates

But if you are the kind of person, who becomes grouchy and cranky after a hard day of trekking and  not in the mood for conversation, then it is not a good idea to share. The tent has to accommodate not just two or three people but their trek bags, sleeping bags and shoes. The atmosphere could quickly become claustrophobic and uncomfortable especially if your tent mate is a new acquaintance and not a friend.  There is barely elbow room as it has and try opening up a trek bag and laying out your items when you have to share space with another person doing the same thing. 

Cost can be a deciding factor

And of course, it also has to do with economics. Are you willing to pay extra to go solo or are you traveling on a budget? Opting for a single tent will definitely cost more and burn a hole in your pocket. Older trekkers who want a more comfortable trekking experience may choose to opt for a single tent, especially if they are solo travelers. It also gives them time away from noisy young trekkers whose energy levels continue to be high even at the end of the day.

Alone in a tent

As you get older, space matters.  For an older trekker, comfort is of utmost importance. I have opted for a single tent on a few treks and have enjoyed the experience. I am happy to get some alone time after I am done with trekking for the day.  It gives me time to reflect on the day’s experiences and make a few notes in a notebook I carry with me. After dinner in the dining tent, I walk back to the cozy environs of my tent and slide into my sleeping bag. I arrange my torch, and my water around me and watch the play of light on the roof of my tent and eventually drift to sleep.

A few years ago, I experienced the pleasure of having a tent all to myself during an all women trek (Druk Path) in Bhutan. Oh, the ecstasy of tossing stuff all around your tent with space to spare, of withdrawing into your own private cocoon with the gentle muffled sounds of the outdoors as your companion, no more elbow jostling or worse with your tent mate, or spending sleepless nights listening to their snores (it’s another matter that snores permeate tent walls but at least they are weakened by the distance they have to travel and barriers they encounter and are sans the booming surround sound experience of a double tent).

A trekking company, that particularly cares for the comforts of the trekkers is a God send. Mr. Wangchuk of Hiking Bhutan Travels made our trek as comfortable as possible.  My tent had the look of a Persian boudoir – a private crawl space that beckons you to put head to pillow (I had a heart shaped one with the words ‘I luv u ‘printed on it which induces a soporific effect.)

The only time I wished for a companion was when the tent quivered and quaked in the wake of a powerful cloud burst, deluged by heavy rain and fierce gusts of wind. I huddled inside invoking the names of all Gods that I remembered. My prayers went unanswered for almost an hour or so; the tent, a refuge that held well against the fury and might of nature. Perhaps the proximity of the Jele Dzong (Buddhist temple) was a saving grace.

I say “Single tent Zindabad” but there are many others who prefer to sleep with a warm body of another trekker by their side. Irrespective of your choice, the experience of staying in a tent is like no other. Now, if they could only do something about the toilet tent. But that’s a story for another day.

 

 

 

How do you pace yourself on a trek?

This is a question that all beginner trekkers have. Setting a pace is very important as it reduces stress and exertion on a trek. Muscles are utilized in a coordinated manner and do not get overtired on a trek. A proper pace will also prevent the need the for unscheduled breaks and will ensure that you walk at a pace that is comfortable yet demanding. Setting a pace can vary from person to person and is dependent on various factors such as your fitness level, your lung capacity, and the length of your stride. Here are a few pointers that a trekker needs to follow when starting on a trek.

Research your trail

Read up on your trek and talk to your guide or other trekkers who have previously done the trek. Understand the elevations attained and the duration of trekking each day before you start on a trek. There will be some easy days and some difficult ones. Have a mental road map as to how you would handle each day. Think about distances that need to be covered on an hourly basis and work on your exercise regimen accordingly. These maps need not be etched in stone as you may find that it is difficult to stick to a plan due to unforeseen challenges, but it definitely allows you to be prepared for the difficult journey ahead.

Set a sustainable pace

When you start a trek, your heart rate is at a resting pace. As you begin to climb (and most trails get into an uphill incline, very quickly) your heart begins to beat faster. Soon your pace begin to slacken as you are not able to walk as fast as when you started. At this stage it is important to decide what your pace is. Slow down and walk at a pace that is comfortable and sustainable.

What is a sustainable pace?

Choose a pace that is comfortable. This varies from person to person.

Choose a pace that allows you to walk continuously for at least two hours (water breaks are fine)

Make sure your overall speed is slow but steady

Give yourself a little extra time when your path is uneven and rocky

Make sure you are not breathless and you can walk and talk

Walk with the group and not ahead of it or lag behind

Many young trekkers have an initial burst of energy and will start off with an overriding enthusiasm to be ahead of the group. But soon their energy flags and they start to falter and get tired easily. Larger groups often break into smaller ones and it is best to be part of one of them depending on your stamina and fitness level. The fitter, more experienced trekkers will often lead the group and sometimes set the pace. If you are a new trekker or have lesser experience, do let the group know. Most groups will be accommodating and ensure that they (or at least some of them) will slow down their pace to ensure that you are able to keep up with them. For the group to stay together, a key rule is to set the pace based on the capacity of the person with the least stamina and fitness level. It is best that beginner hikers walk somewhere in the middle or be the penultimate hiker and not at the end. Strong trekkers before and after the inexperienced trekkers can help set an appropriate pace and ensure that the focus for the beginner is to focus on matching the rhythm of the trekker in front of them.

Align your steps to your breathing

This may be difficult initially, but it is important to match your breathing to each step that you take. The best way to do this is to count each step that you take and attempt to match it with your breath. Initially start with three counts or steps with each breath that you take. With time, you can reduce it to two counts or steps with each breath and finally one count or step with each breath. Your stride can be shortened or lengthened depending on the terrain. But be sure to follow this mantra as it helps set a certain rhythm and cadence to your trekking.

Set a pace by using a technique that sets a rhythm

Use a device such as singing a song or chanting a mantra or a marching cadence to set the pace for trekking.  Sometimes people align their steps and set a pace with the group by singing a song together. This helps you to walk along with a group, ensuring that a similar pace is set and is followed over a duration of time. Swinging your arms back and forth in rhythm will also keep your upper and lower body in sync and in step. Hiking poles are very important and can help enhance rhythm and also help set the pace.

Take short breaks

It is important that the trekker takes breaks at regular intervals but these need to be kept short. A long break or sitting down for an extending period of time can disrupt your trekking routine and cause your muscles to tighten up. Make sure you have a water bladder with a pipe that will enable you to take a sip of water at regular intervals. This will ensure that you do not stop for water breaks on a regular basis.

Slow down with elevation gain or loss

As you move to higher elevations, the air gets thinner and the oxygen levels are low. It is important, even if you are an experienced trekker to slow down your pace and take frequent breaks. In general, an experienced trekker will be able to cover at least 3 to 4.5 kilometers on a fairly well laid out even trail. If you are a beginner, you may be a bit slow, as you make take frequent breaks. It is generally estimated that for each thousand feet of elevation gain you need to add about 50 minutes. Walking downhill can slow you down too and force you to adopt a slower pace as it puts tremendous pressure on your knees and calves and impacts your balance. An additional half hour is estimated for a loss of a thousand feet and even more if the incline is steep and slushy.

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