A Trek that takes your Breath Away - The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: A Conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan - Part I

Preeti and Rajasekharan (Raja) are a couple that love the outdoors and trekking. I first met them when we did a trek to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal and was motivated by their fitness levels and enthusiasm for the mountains. It was indeed a sight to see Preeti maintaining a steady pace and Raja falling closely behind with his long strides and easy gait. They work together as a team and if there were a quote that would best describe their journey together, it would be “your partner is both home and adventure all at once.”  

 Preeti and Raja recently completed the Kashmir Great Lakes trek (KGLT) and found it both exciting and challenging. Here, they share their experiences about this wondrous trek that takes your breath away (both literally and figuratively)

 

Before we get to your experiences trekking the KGLT, tell us a little bit about you got into trekking?

 

Preeti:  I have always loved the outdoors and travelling was something I was always interested in. When our children were young, they would go on day hikes and short trips, organised by a friend of ours. We would sometimes accompany them as parent volunteers.  We had friends who shared their trekking experiences and then we worked up the courage to go on a trek. Our first trek was to Roopkund with our son. It was a bit of a struggle because we were not prepared. We were not carrying the right clothing and it was difficult keeping up with the other young people on the trek. We also suffered from altitude sickness. We couldn’t complete it but really enjoyed the experience.  Since then, we have done several treks in India and Nepal, including Annapurna Base Camp and Goechala, and have done plenty of day hikes in and around Bangalore. We can easily say that KGLT was one of the most difficult treks we had done. 

 
Did you know about the Kashmir Great lakes trek, before you went on it?

 

Preeti:  We had heard about the trek and the beautiful vistas we would see and it was on our bucket list. Our friends who are avid trekkers had done the Tarsar Marsar trek and were keen on doing the Kashmir Great lakes trek after that. They approached us and asked us to join them for the trek in 2019. We had made our plans, but it was at that time that the Government announced the revocation of Article 370 and the announcement that Jammu and Kashmir would become a Union Territory.  We had to cancel our tickets and then decided to do it again in July of 2021, when the COVID restrictions were eased to some extent. This time it was a larger group of about 12 people.

What kind of preparations did you do for the Kashmir Great lakes Trip?

Raja: It was nothing out of the ordinary. We continued our walking near our residence, and focused on walking on inclined stretches. Besides that, we did our favourite hike, i.e., climbing Nandi Hills several times. (Nandi Hills, is a hill fortress outside Bangalore where Tipu Sultan 18th-century ruler, built his fort. The trekking at Nandi Hills stretches to about 1.5 kms and it is a good trek for beginners.). 

We climbed Nandi Hills on five consecutive weekends and we climbed up the 1200 steps not once but twice on each visit. This helped us gain the necessary stamina and fitness for the trek.

Preeti: I Our friends who organized the trek are very physically fit and used to regular follow up with us and other members of the trek regarding our fitness regimen and give us advice about the kind of exercises we need to do to enhance our endurance levels. I also read a few blogs to get some basic understanding of the trek and the difficulty level but did not watch YouTube videos and the like. I prefer to be surprised when I am on the trek.

Now, let’s talk about the trek. What was the starting point of the trek?

Raja: We landed before lunch time in Srinagar and made our way to Sonmarg. Kashmir has a beauty that is distinct from that of other Himalayan regions. The campsite was located at the entrance to Sonmarg and not at Shitkadi (the usual campsite). We were very lucky that our trek didn’t get cancelled or postponed because of the rains. We stayed in tents that the trekking guide had put up for us on a green patch located near the river. We had our tea and dinner, interacted with the guides, got a briefing on the schedule and went to sleep hoping that the weather would be in our favour throughout the trek and it did. Luckily for us, we had a window that was absolutely devoid of rain.  The other teams that had left a day or two before us had to abandon the trek.

Tell us about Day 1.  Was it an easy day like it is on most treks?

Preeti: We went from Sonmarg (7800 feet) to Nichnai (11500 feet). The first day itself was fairly tough. We started walking around 8am in the morning. The day was sunny and gradually it got hotter. We walked on a proper path and vistas around were green meadows, a beautiful sight. But there was a continuous incline which made it quite tough. The surroundings were a blanket of green, almost like a golf course. Did you know that the Salman Khan film” Bajrangi Baijaan “was shot here? There were several other groups walking with us.

Raja: As we climbed up, we walked along the River Sind. After a certain distance I looked back and could see Sonmarg below us. We ascended about 2500 feet from our starting point to reach Tabletop, where there was a small shop that sold tea, maggi and eggs. It took us about four hours to reach this point. On the way the rolling green meadows gave way to forests of maple, pine and silver birch.  We could see sheep and shepherd huts in the distance which would become a common sight in the coming days. Our guide told us an interesting story about Tabletop.   Apparently, during the Kargil war, the Kashmiri Shepherds observed a few strangers (Pakistani soldiers) dressed like them. They immediately got suspicious and informed the Indian Army about them.

We did not stay at tabletop but moved further towards Nichnai. Even here at times the path was rocky in places. We stopped at several places to take a rest and have our lunch too. We reached our d campsite at about 3 pm. The weather was very hot and I regretted not having full sleeves We finally reached our campsite and were exhausted. The surroundings though were beautiful and we camped along a river. On Day 1 we had walked over 13 kms. It was a relaxing evening and we had a simple but delicious meal of roti, sabzi, dal and dessert.

Day 2 is a trek from Nichnai (11, 500 feet) to Vishansar lake (12000 feet). You climb up to Nichnai pass (13,500 feet) and then walk on. Was that difficult?

Raja:  Day 2 was quite tough. We saw snow patches here and there. We had to cross a river but managed to cross over as there was an ice bridge. We saw a lot of towering snow-clad mountains. Nichnai pass was at 13500 feet and it took us almost two and a half hours to reach the pass. There was a lot of snow and icy patches in the vicinity of the Nichnai pass.

After the Pass, as we crossed into the next valley, it became a lot greener and we saw a multitude of flowers. Some among us who have been to the Valley of Flowers actually felt that there was more of a variety here. We stopped to have lunch and from there on it was a gentle walk. We finally saw the first lake of our trek, the Vishansar lake.

Preeti:  The Vishansar Lake is at an elevation of 3710 meters. Lake Vishansar means the lake of Vishnu, which is the source of Neelum river and this lake is known for its many fishes especially Trout.  People sometimes come here for fishing.  We could dip our tired feet in the cold water, sit on the shore and gaze at lake Vishansar. We reached our camp and then came back to the lake. The toilet tent at camp was placed very far away from the lake, about 500 feet from the camp site. We were so tired but the scenery was spectacular. We ate our dinner and fell asleep almost immediately. Tomorrow was Day 3 and it was going to be a tough trek to Gadsar Pass.

Photo Credits: Preeti/ Raja  Milind Chalisgaonkar

Read Part II of Preeti and Raja's experience on the Kashmir Great lakes Trek next week

Changing the definition of Trekking: An Interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part II

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part II of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector, what needs to be done to revive the sector and his advice for someone who wants to start a trekking operation post COVID.

How has trekking been impacted by COVID?

Its not just the trekking industry but the travel and tourism sector as a whole that has been impacted. Adventure tour operators and trekking outfit like mine have been impacted, but in essence its those who work in the tourism industry that have been affected the most are those who work on ground as guides, porters and ancillary staff. I have had to cancel many treks because of the pandemic and the people who have suffered the most are my staff who are locals. They are dependent on the seasonal work and it has made a huge dent in their earnings.

For me personally, it has been difficult because I have for the first time not been able to travel to the mountains and I have had serious withdrawal symptoms. I have personally dipped into my savings to support my staff and it hasn’t been easy. Between waves, we were able to take a few clients on treks but business did decrease substantially. I am keeping my fingers crossed that COVID will now become endemic in the population and we can slowly pick up the pieces.

Will the trekking industry be able to recover and attain pre COVID levels of success?

I do see a renewed boom in trekking.  Trekking as an activity has an inbuilt social distancing component. Trekkers in a trekking group as you will know, never travel together. The groups split into smaller sub groups of single trekkers or a group of two or three. There is limited conversation and people are trying to focus on conserving energy. It is a meditative activity, that gives you time to reflect on various issues.

How do you ensure that your treks are COVID compliant?

I primarily customized treks for homogenous groups of people who know each other – primarily consisting of family members and /or friends. I therefore ensure that people in the group are comfortable with each other and have no hesitancy in interacting with each other.

In addition, I am absolutely strict about all my trekking clients having double vaccination certificates and a COVID negative certificate (if the destination state mandates it). I am very particular and ensure that all staff including guides, drivers, cooks, horsemen, porters, and other ancillary staff are double vaccinated and test negative before a trek as well.  All COVID protocols are followed as per Government regulations of the state in which trek is located.

How can we as trekkers help to revive the industry? 

Avid trekkers and those who have been trekking pre COVID need no incentive to start trekking again. They are waiting for the third wave to recede and are already planning their trek.  To ensure that we encourage beginner trekkers to start on treks, we need to use social media as a tool to talk about the benefits of trekking in a post COVID scenario. We as trekkers and influencers need to write blog post and share visuals (images and YouTube videos) of the magnificent mountains. It is important to motivate people to do small treks even in the outskirts of their cities and towns as it may not always be easy to travel to Himalayas. 

How can trekking be a sustainable operation? 

There is no doubt that tourism as such brings in a tremendous amount of revenue and earnings. It is therefore very important that when the ecosystem is impacted, that the Government and other stakeholders’ step in and provide support.  

 My suggestions would be 

1. An insurance scheme for those who are seasonally employed in the tourism and trekking sector to ensure that they receive a fixed remuneration in the event of a climate induced calamity or pandemic.  

2. Provision of a fund to ensure that local operators and entrepreneurs are compensated in case of loss

3.   3. Ensure that all guides and associated staff who provide support on treks have a high school degree

4.    4. All guides and ancillary staff must be registered and have a bank account.

5.   5.  Capacity building workshops and free training in trekking and mountaineering and high-altitude rescue should be provided to locals in the Himalayan regions, so that trekking and other mountain related activities can be a viable income and livelihood opportunity

What would be your advice to a someone who wants to run a trekking and adventure tour operation?

I started a business from nothing and with no experience or knowledge of how to start a business. But I was lucky as there was very little competition at that time. Today, even during COVID times, there is plenty of competition. So, it is very important for a novice tour operator to study and understand the market, identify a strategy that is unique, raise resources. Getting into trekking apparel is also an attractive proposition.  Also, it is important that one is social media savvy or have the resource to hire someone who can take care of branding, packaging and market. These of course are general and pertain to any business. With trekking, it is particularly important that you understand the various trekking options on offer and how we can best curate these in accordance with client’s needs.

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

 

 

              

Changing the definition of trekking: An interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part I

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part 1 of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about his love for trekking, his favourite trekking journeys, his tips for beginner trekkers and his trekking venture Ongoz Escapades.
 

Tell us a little bit about your childhood and your first trekking experience

I was born in Kolkata. My father was in the Air Force and inculcated a sense of adventure in me from the time I was young. As a student of the Air Force school, I was often taken on short treks and excursions into the mountains. When I was in the eighth grade, a few of us, students and a teacher, had the opportunity to walk from Dehradun to Mussoorie. It was only a day’s walk but it changed me as a person. It was absolutely fascinating for me to be amidst nature and the mountains. The mountains have always been, not just a source of adventure, but also inspiration, harmony and tranquility.

How did that first trek make you feel?

It awakened within me the realization, even at that young age, that it was the journey that mattered and not the destination. After I reached Mussoorie, I was disappointed that I had reached my destination. The trekking journey was constantly on my mind. I realized that if you have to experience the environment and surroundings, you have to do it slowly and savour it. Walking provides you a holistic experience - the landscape, the air, the trees, the forests and the environment make it so much so much more meaningful.

How did you decide that you wanted trekking to become an occupation and not just a hobby?

I did several treks after my first trek. My first long trek was to Kedarnath with my relatives. It took me two days and I had to carry my own luggage, but it convinced me that this was what I was meant to do. I also trekked to Dzongri (a pitstop on the Goechala trek) and I fell in love with the journey. I have done the Goechala trek 35 times till now and every time is like the first time.  

I took up a corporate job, but  would always wait for the time that I could take leave and travel to the mountains. But that brief period of leave, was too short a time for me. In 2004, I decided that I didn’t want to work in the corporate sector any more, that was not my way of life. I had done several basic and advanced mountaineering courses from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and this gave me an in-depth knowledge about the nature of mountains, and the type of terrain we need to cover, the various  challenges one may face and the type of weather systems one encounters on treks. Most importantly, it taught me about search and rescue and how to lead a lead and coordinate a trek. I felt that I should put my trekking experience and mountaineering skills to good use and decided to start my own trekking company and guide people on treks.
 

What is the most difficult trek that you have done?

Difficulty is a subjective term and it varies depending on the trekker’s physical fitness, stamina, endurance level and technical skills, of course the prevailing weather conditions in the region where one is trekking. For me, the most challenging were the Khalindi Khal  and Green Lake treks. Khalindi starts from Gangotri and ends in Badrinath. It is a trekking expedition which is difficult under the best of circumstances and involves a walk over rough glaciers, rocky screens, and crevassed snowfields. The Green Lake trek, which is the original base camp of Kanchenjunga in North Sikkim has a seven to eight km moraine stretch with no proper path. It is a treacherous and dangerous walk as it involves walking between the boulders. It should only be undertaken by trekkers who have done at least seven to eight high altitude treks at over 5000 meters. I was also once trapped in the snow for two days because of an avalanche, while I was doing the Goechala trek.

What is a trek you’ve always wanted to go on?

 The Trek that I have always wanted to do, but may never materialize is the K2 basecamp trek in Gilgit Baltistan region in Pakistan. Another trek that I couldn’t finish was the Snowman’s trek in Bhutan. It’s a 24-day trek, and I had to bring back a sick trekker after three to four days, as I was a guide on that trek. I hope to do that trek someday. I also want to do the trek from Phalut to Dzongri called the Damphebir La trek where the trail runs parallel to the border with Nepal and some spectacular mountains such as Koktang, Ratong, Kabru and Talung can be seen with the Kanchenjunga Massif in the background. Damphebir is also called a Devil's Pass. The top of the Pass is a famous viewpoint - it gives a panoramic view of Mt Everest towards the left and Mt Kanchenjunga range towards the right. The viewpoint is also surrounded by six alpine lakes at its base. I hope to do these when I get some free time. 

What is the first trek, a trekker should go on?

There are many  treks that are relatively easy and suitable for a first time time trekker, but one of my favourites is the Sandakphu trek. (For more information on Sandakphu, read my blog post on moderate treks.) I have done Sandakphu 98 times with my clients and for many it is their first trek. They have always enjoyed that first experience which introduces them to trekking in a gentle manner. The Sandakphu trek offers the comforts of home like a good comfortable bed, and excellent food at home stays. This is akin to the tea house concept in Nepal. The introduction to trekking therefore is gradual. The journey requires a maximum of six hours of walking per day and the inclines are gradual and the path is easy. And finally, when they reach Sandakphu and see the sleeping Buddha and some of the greatest mountains in the world including Mount Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga and Pandim, it is the best feeling in the world.  Trekkers who enjoy Sandakphu and are able to complete it are now ready for the next level of trekking experiences which can include camping in tents and using a sleeping bag.

What is your advice to first time trekkers?

 

This is a very pertinent question and I would like to mention three key points, that should be ingrained in a trekker’s mind psyche

1. Safety first, glory if possible –It is very important to listen to your guide or tour operator and not make choices that are risky and dangerous. While it is exhilarating to reach your destination, it is important that you should take all necessary precautions and prioritize safety of both yourself and your trekking companions first, before anything else. 

2. Respect the mountains: When we approach the mountain with folded hands and pure love and respect, the mountain welcomes us. If you are only able to go up to a certain point and then return, accept this as the will of the mountain and respect the Mighty Messiah’s command. Every step that we take on its slopes, is a privilege, and permission that has been accorded to us. 

3. Accept and be grateful for all that the mountains give you:  In trekking, it is important to understand your surroundings and that it is never about conquering the mountain, but experiencing all that it offers.  It is never about reaching the destination, but instead experiencing the journey and taking the time to savour and internalize the experience.

 You have taken some truly wonderful photographs while trekking? When and how did you develop your skills in photography and what would be your tips for budding photographers?

 

My father was an ardent photographer and he inculcated in me a love for the DSLR camera and interest in nature photography. A lot of my images were taken while I trekked. Over the years I have invested in photography equipment and am a self- taught photographer.

I have a few simple tips for trekkers who want to take good photographs on their treks

1.     Keep your gear light: Use equipment that do not add considerable extra weight to your trekking equipment. Mirrorless cameras for example, are much lighter. There are several phones with good cameras. Invest in these if you do not want to carry a DSLR camera.

2.     Make use of the light: Choose a time before 9am and after 4pm to shoot as the light in the mountains is best during this period.

3.     Research and amplify your technical skills: There is a lot of information available online and it is important to talk to experts.  Understand the exposure triangle and select the right lens based on what you want to shoot

4.     Study and practice composition: An object can be visualized in many ways and composition makes all the difference. Study the work of professional photographers to understand composition and framing

5.     Choose your locations: Treks provide a variety of locales with spectacular scenery and there is no better way to shoot the mountains than when you are trekking.

6.     Be creative: Photography is a form of art and it is not enough to just have technical skills but also important to have a creative bent of mind to see an image in an unique manner.

Tell us about Ongoz Escapades and how it is different from other trekking companies?

The name Ongoz comes from the Onge tribe which is, indigenous to the Andaman Islands. It can also be read as "On Goes" which denotes continuity. Ongoz offers an immersive experience for people who want to trek and provides a certain comfort factor to trekkers so that the journey becomes a little easier for them. I change the definition of trekking for trekkers who are beginners and are completely inexperienced about the wilderness, by providing certain basic luxuries and acting as a mentor and guide to help them get the best out of such an experience. 

I don’t advertise or market my treks and my organisation via social media or other channels. I rely solely on word-of-mouth references from my clients who have enjoyed the trekking experiences that I have provided. I also don't have fixed departures and prefer to customise my treks for an individual or a group in accordance with their needs. 

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

Do remember to check out part 2 next week, where we talk to Indranil about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector and his forecast for the trekking industry post COVID.

What do you do when COVID derails your treks?

 If you, like me,  haven't been on a trek in the last two years, because COVID has hit the pause button,  it must be a very frustrating and exasperating time. All trekkers have the same question - When is it safe to go trekking again? 

 I do see a light at the end of the tunnel  but you will have to be patient a little longer. Trekking has taken a back seat  for many avid trekkers because of travel restrictions due to COVID or because of adverse climatic conditions ( the rains have played quite a spoiler in the last few months). 

How do you keep the spirt of trekking alive, when you are at home and unable to venture outdoors? How do you retain your connect with the mountains even within the four walls of your house? Here are a few ways to keep the trekking flame alive in your heart even though COVID has derailed your plans.

1. Continue you fitness regimen

Continue your regular fitness program despite not having a trekking goal post in mind. If there has been a break in your exercising due to COVID restrictions or you are recovering from a bout of COVID, ease into exercising through brisk walking for about 20 to 30 minutes. You may then get into a mixed cardio activity which includes gentle jogging and walking. Engaging in functional exercises and yoga are also important. If anything, a daily routine of exercise in some form, will help you retain your health and wellbeing with the knowledge and assurance, that you will be fit to trek when the time comes. Do check out my blog post on 'How do I exercise for a trek?' if you need any tips on trek fitness.

2. Watch trekking videos and documentaries on  You-tube/ social media channels

Watching trekking and mountaineering videos and documentaries has become a regular routine for my husband and me during these trying times of COVID. Post dinner is in front of the TV, watching You-tube videos of some of the toughest treks in India, Nepal and around the world.  Every night we trek the Kalindi Khal trek, (one of the toughest treks in India) or hike the Appalachian trails or climb Mount Aconacagua in Argentina..  I am not going to recommend any one particular you-tube video or channel (just google and you will give several hits), because all of them are interesting.  There is  a mountaineering documentary that deserves a special mention, though - 14 peaks on Netflix which features Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja who climbed the world's fourteen highest peaks within seven months. There are also several 'how to' videos that can help you improve your trekking techniques and help you purchase the right kind of gear for a trek. 

3. Do local hikes

If you cant go to the Himalayas, explore local hikes that are near you city. Do a little research and you will come across several trails  just outside the city limits. Make sure to check if these trails are open and take the necessary permissions and permits from the necessary authorities before you embark on these hikes. 

4. Form a trekkers support group

For all trekkers who suffer from withdrawal symptoms, it is important to be part of a support group. If you regularly trek with others, you already may be part of of  trekking WhatsApp groups. In the last year or so, our  group of trekkers called the Trail Blazers have an active WhatsApp group that regularly  chats and shares stories and visuals and  reminisce about treks we did together. We also occasionally organize virtual  meets that help us connect with each other.

5. Support those employed in the sector

Behind each successful trek is an experienced guide and his support staff consisting of cooks,  horsemen, and the locals who double up as helpers. From serving and managing camp sites, carrying essential loads on their back or managing pack animals, to cooking and serving timely and delicious meals and even serving as a motivators to trekkers when the going gets tough, these support staff serve are lifelines for trekkers.  It wouldn't be a comfortable trek if these "behind the scene" workers weren't around.  The pandemic has derailed the livelihoods of these workers. They deserve our support and help during these trying times. Work with your trekking community to set up a fund or donate to organizations that support community members working in the trekking sector. If you wish to be more personally involved, volunteer your time  and skills to upskill and build the capacities of these support staff, based on their  needs.  

6. Plan your next trek

If you are not able to go on a trek, do the next best thing - PLAN for one. There are many blogs and websites that will provides details on the various treks in India, Nepal and around the world. Identify one that is in keeping with your capabilities and endurance, and discuss it with your trekking  friends and guide. And most importantly, prepare for it.  

So what are you waiting for! its just a matter of months. The best treks are yet to come.

Gandhi could have been a trekker

Today is Gandhi’s birthday and as I head out for my morning walk, it suddenly occurs to me that Gandhi could have been a trekker. Think about it. According to an article in Down to Earth, apparently Gandhi walked 18 kilometres a day for nearly 40 years.  Health records of Gandhi published in the Indian Journal of Medical Research in 2019 reveal that he walked a total of 79,000 km during his political campaigns from 1913 to 1948. Apparently, he disliked traveling by cars or buses and chose to walk everywhere.

For most of his adult life, Gandhi weighed around 100 pounds. He was five-feet-five-inches tall  and his photographs give an impression of frailty. But nothing could be further from the truth. All his life, he kept a gruelling schedule. He travelled incessantly, criss-crossing the country on train and foot. 

He had an amazing capacity to walk and achieved much by walking for miles and connecting with the common man and woman on the ground. 

The Historic Dandi march spanned 240 miles (390 km), from Sabarmati Ashram to Dandi, which was called Navsari at that time (now in the state of Gujarat). Growing numbers of Indians joined them along the way and at one time the crowd was 3 kms long. 

His lathi or walking stick, akin to a trekking pole played a very important role in the march. On 12th March 1930 as Gandhi set out on his historic March to challenge the salt tax, a colleague and friend Kaka Kelekar thought a walking stick might come in handy. This lathi became famous as he walked it with it 10 miles a day, for 24 days. It was a simple bamboo pole 54 inches high from the Malnad region Of Karnataka and made from Nagara Bhetta, a variety of cane where every knot was marked by a natural black spot. 

Gandhi’s foot march to Noakhali and Tipperah districts in Bengal , from November 1946 to February 1947, where he appealed for peace in the aftermath of communal violence is also an amazing exercise of persistence and tenacity . He visited riot torn villages by walking on waterlogged roads and narrow and slippery paths strewn with night soil, deliberately thrown by anti social elements who did not want him to visit. But at 77 years of age, he was determined. He walked barefoot, sleeping every night in a different village, taxing his body even more, as if challenging rioters and his critics to do their maximum, but it would not deter him in his efforts to restore peace.

He was a pioneer in choosing sustainable modes of travel and had very early in his life realised the benefits of walking on the body. While studying law in England (1888-91), he initially stayed as a tenant with an English family. But finding himself short of money, he decided to cut his expenses by half. He took independent rooms of his own, selected so that he could walk to his workplace in half an hour. This allowed him to not only keep his expenses under control but also maintain his health and remain free from illness in England.  When he came to Bombay after his stint in London, he lived in Girgaum. He would walk to the High Court, which took him 45 minutes, and return on foot as well.

“Strength does not come from physical capacity. It comes from an indomitable will” said  Gandhi and for a trekker there could be no truer statement. 

Short Hikes in Spiti

There are several treks  that begin or end in Spiti Valley, namely Hampta Pass, Pin Bhabha Pass and Kanamo Peak trek. These of course are magnificent treks in their own right and fairly difficult, but I would like to recommend two short hikes, if you are in the Spiti region and want to experience the magnificence of Spiti close and upfront while walking and not in a car. These are perfect for fit, middle aged and senior trekkers who may not want to get into a full scale  trek but yearn to hike the rugged and surreal Spiti landscape. Two of the short hikes I did recently during my visit to Spiti with Ongoz Escapades was the Dhankar Valley trek and the Lake Chandratal trek.

The Dhankar Lake Trek

The Dhankar Lake trek is really a hike. Dhankar Lake is situated above the village Dhankar at an elevation of approximately 4140 meters. A taxi from Tabo takes you to the Dhankar village situated on a cliff at the confluence of Pin river & Spiti river and Monastery from where you start the trek. The monastery which definitely warrants a visit ( do this after the trek) is at 3750 metres. Climbing an altitude of 390 metres is difficult at high altitudes. 

The Ascent

The trek itself could be classified as a moderately difficult trek as it is mostly a steep uphill hike which can make you fairly breathless and can test your stamina and endurance levels. The path is narrow in parts and at times difficult to traverse. But once you climb past the first 150 metres or so, it levels out and becomes more comfortable. It can get windy and cold as you trek, so do equip yourself with a warm jacket. The ascent to the lake takes little more than an hour. 

At the lake

As you turn the final corner , you first notice an ancient stupa and then you get your first vision of the lake. The white stupa or Chorten is almost 10 feet tall and is covered with the layers of prayer flags that flutter in the wind. The lake is oval in shape and changes in size depending on the water from the glacier. The lake is blue green in colour and is clear. The lake is frozen for about eight months of the year and is only accessible from mid-May to September. The shores offer offers breathtaking views of Manirang Peak, the highest peak of Himachal Pradesh located on the border of Kinnaur and Spiti district.

Bathing or putting one’s feet into the lake is forbidden as it is a water source for surrounding villages in the region. There are hills with hiking trails surrounding the lake and if time permits, you could hike up a hill to get a birds eye view of the surroundings. We rest by the lake for an hour or so and enjoy the calm and tranquility. The lake and the surrounding region are home to many types of birds and Himalayan wildlife such as the blue baraal and Ibex. 

The Descent

The descent back to the monastery takes us only about 45 minutes but the downhill climb is tough on the knees and takes immense concentration. Half way through I notice that my silver ring that I purchased in Tabo is missing, but to my delight, one of the guides has managed to locate it. I thank the Gods for their kindness and the opportunity to be able to trek to the Lake without experiencing a bout of high altitude sickness.

The Chandratal Hike

Chandratal lake ( Moon lake) at 4287 metres was one of the stops on the old highway used by Tibetan and Ladakhi traders traveling to Kullu and Spiti. It is a small sweet water lake that is also the source of the Chandra river which later on merges with river Chenab. This lake can be accessed both by road and via a trek. The beauty of this lake and the surrounding region is unparalleled, the mountains ( the Chandra Bhaga range) are striated in shades of slate, brown and ochre , interspersed with muddy rivers in varying shades of blue and startling green patches of earth. It is believed that Yudhistra, thr eldest brother of the Pandavas was taken from Chandratal to Heaven by Indra. It is also believed that the lake  is visited by fairies at night. 

Thr Hampta Pass trek culminates in Chandratal. There is also a 15 kilometre trek from Kumzum Pass which is at an altitude of 4551 metres. The Pass is the main gateway to Spiti Valley from Lahaul Valley. This is a 15 km trek and could take an entire day. There is also the relatively unknown Chandratal Baralacha trek which is difficult and not recommended for beginners. And then there is a 14 km long trek from Batal. Batal, a small village is know for its small dhaba called the ChachaChachi Dhaba which serve the best Alu Parathas and Rajma Chawal. But I am not talking about any of of these treks, as they are difficult and not for everyone. A simple hike will help you absorb the essence of Spiti. 

Trekking from the campsite

We drive from Kibber  via Kunzum pass to one of the many camp sites near Chandratal ( these are located about 3 kms from the lake). We stay in a Swiss tent with an attached toilet and electricity and it’s extremely comfortable.  

While some members of our group opt to travel to Chandratal by car, the rest decide to trek the distance. It takes us close to an hour and a half to travel a distance of three kms. The trail is clear and fairly easy. The mountains and the greenery surrounding it is breathtaking. The trail is not clearly marked and one can get easily lost or miss the lake by taking the wrong turn. It’s best to perhaps take along a guide or a friendly local who knows the region. As we walk we are surrounded by majestic mountains and green meadows. We occasionally come across thickets of wild flowers in pink and violet and coloured stones in vivid hues. And we even see blackened patches of  land struck by lighting. As you climb in altitude by about 180 metres to Chandratal you see other glacier fed lakes in the distance. These are fed by the Samudra Tapu glacier, which can be seen in the distance.  The area is devoid of any habitation and the stark surreal beauty of the region beguiles your senses. 

The Lake

We climb a short hill and the view from the top is a sight to behold and beyond imagination. The lake lies below ringed by hills that change colours as the set descends towards the eastern horizon. The hues in blue and green are mesmerising. We descend towards the lake and as we get near the lapping of the water against the shore and the  many stacked stone formations are soothing to the eye. Members of our team who went to Chandratal by car are doing a Parikrama (the action or ritual of moving clockwise round an object of devotion as an indication of reverence). 

We spend an hour or more at the lake and reluctantly leave, as twilight descends. It’s closing time and we have to leave the area. We walk to the parking lot and see various signs that warn people not to swim in the lake or to pollute the area. Despite this, we have read recent reports of a visitor who drowned in the lake and we see plastic packets disposed in the vicinity of the lake. It is increasingly important that travellers to ecologically fragile zones such as Spiti and the Himalayan region in general take responsibility and be accountable for their actions and play in role in preserving and protecting our natural heritage sites.

I do hope you enjoyed reading my blog post on the short treks in Spiti. Do let me know if you have any queries on the treks or on Spiti and do continue to like and follow my blog.