Dream Big and Work Hard - The Everest base Camp Trek: A Conversation with Vijay Rao

Vijay Rao got ‘conned into trekking’ as he puts it, after listening to the trekking encounters of a friend who went to Everest Base Camp and Gokhyo trek. But unlike many others, who go to EBC on a whim and with no proper training, he took his mission very seriously.  Vijay knew that planning was very crucial for converting his dreams into action. He started by doing easy small treks that would eventually lead him to where he wanted to be. He built his skills and knowledge over a period of four years and finally felt he was ready to take on this monumental trek in 2022. I had a discussion with him about his experience in doing the Everest base Camp Trek.

When did the trekking bug bite you, Vijay?

I started trekking in 2017. A friend who returned from EBC and Gokhyo trek, told me about her adventures and I was fascinated.  So, we decided to do a small easy trek and my wife and I did Har Ki Dhun in 2017. Trekking was new to me. I was in the Navy and had done a bit of hobby sailing and the like, but nothing really adventurous. But I was always particular about fitness and exercise and that of course made it easier to get into trekking.

My friend gave me a tip that really stuck with me. She said ‘pick a trek that you will enjoy and when you come back, you will look forward to the next one”. It is always important to start with a trek that is well within your capabilities. We picked a good easy short trek to begin with and really enjoyed the walking, the surroundings and the company of our fellow trekkers. At the end of the day, we would reach camp and there was a lot of camaraderie and fun.

What were some of the other treks you did and how did they help prepare you for the EBC trek?

We next did Sandakphu, which was again, a beginner’s trek. After that we were forced to take a break because of the Pandemic. I then wanted to raise the bar a bit and decided to do a high-altitude trek. My goal was to do EBC, but I was not prepared in 2020. Goechala takes you to a maximum altitude of 16000 feet. It was the first trek where I had to acclimatize and understand how the body reacts to a lack of oxygen.  I needed the necessary skills and experience to attempt EBC. 

EBC is a difficult trek and I wanted to be absolutely sure that I could take it on. Each trek taught me several lessons and new facets to trekking. Every exposure made me realize that I needed the necessary experience and information to get my boots on the ground for EBC. If I attempted the trek in a half-baked manner, I would be in a soup.

How did you physically prepare for the EBC trek?

 In my past treks, there were a few fellow trekkers who were in their thirties, but found it difficult to complete the trek. They were completely unprepared and had made no efforts to do the necessary exercises and enhance their stamina and endurance prior to the trek. That taught me a very valuable lesson. At sixty, it was all the more important for me to make the right efforts to prepare for EBC, which was more difficult than the other treks I had done.

Four months before the trek, I started doing 45 -50 kms of walking, alternating it with running.  Then I progressed to stair climbing and walking with 4 kg weighted backpack. I then tapered off the exercise two weeks before I went on the trek. It was initially difficult to do this post the pandemic. But it is very important to get into this routine to ensure that you have enough stamina. I also worked on strengthening my muscles, especially those in my core and pelvic region to ensure that those muscles which would get used most in the trek have been exercised and are in good shape for this trek.

Vijay, tell us about the trek and your experiences.

According to me, the trek was more difficult than the other treks that I had done. But I really enjoyed doing the trek despite the difficulty and the altitude gain. The actual trail offered a lot more security than the others. The trail was broad.  It was easy to walk on the trail for the most part.

The first day, there was a gradual descent, and then there was a climb for 45 mins to Phakding. It was a crucial day for me as it gave me an indication about my capacity to trek. The Kathmandu to Lukla flight can sometimes get cancelled due to bad weather conditions. Lukla is a very tiny airport and they will cancel the flight as they don’t want to take any chances with the weather. Our group got split into two and I was part of the group that landed earlier at 10am.  Two of our members got delayed and they reached at 4pm. The destination was Phakding and it took me about two and a half to three hours to get there. I had ample time to rest on the first day and it gave me the courage to go on.

The real trek begins on the second day, where we walked from Phakding to Namche Bazar. The first part of the trek was not too difficult and then came the steep climb to Namche which seemed never ending. Namche Hill was a continuous incline. It was more of steps and some bit of trail.  The walk on the second day took me seven and a half to eight hours. At Namche, we were able to rest and acclimatize and we went to see a view of Mount Everest from the view point. But we were not able to see it because of cloud cover. We got a brief glimpse of Lhotse though.

After Namche, we reached Tengboche. The weather started getting better from Tengboche onwards. Most blogs don’t mention the subsequent days till Gorakshep, as difficult. But for me every day was a challenge. There was always a gradient and as you got into higher altitudes, the trek got more difficult. We reached Gorakshep early, had a bite to eat and then headed to EBC. There is a choice here, either we can go to EBC or Kala Patthar. Some groups prefer to go to Kala Patthar in the evening. They get to see the sunset which is spectacular against EBC and the other greats such as Lhotse, Nuptse, Changtse, Pumori and Ama Dablam etc. But there is also a time constraint and one needs to get back in time. I chose to do it in the morning and see the sunrise. I didn’t go all the way to Kala Patthar but went up to the mid-way point where the view is spectacular and better than the top. The evening before we went to Everest Base Camp. After all that is the name of the trek and you need to take a photo of yourself next to the sign that says Everest Base Camp 5363 metres. It gave me such a sense of satisfaction and pleasure. I was also happy that I had worked hard to do this trek and getting to EBC made it worth the time spent and effort put in.

The first day of descent from Kala Patthar to Pangboche was particularly difficult. It started at 3am in the morning and got over at 6.15 pm. I was exhausted.  So, if possible, it is important to add another day on the descent if you can.

Some people opted to take the helicopter back to Lukhla. It can be an expensive option, but also eliminates three days of descent, which can only add to the fatigue and tiredness after reaching EBC and Kala Patthar. 

Acute Mountain Sickness is common while trekking EBC. How did you combat this?

I decided that I would take Diamox during this trip. Trekker have diverse views on whether to take medication or not as a preventive and everyone is entitled to their opinion. One of the Youtube videos that I watched on combating altitude sickness talked about trusting Diamox as an effective deterrent to altitude sickness. I also feel that one invests, time, money and effort in preparing for a trek like EBC and it makes no sense to fall victim to altitude sickness when Diamox could have prevented it. I was taking 125 mgs in the morning and 125 in the evening. I started in Namche and took the medication till I finished my descent.

What were some of the other precautions you took to avoid falling sick during the trip?

I did Goechala in 2021 and during thesummit day, I realized that I had made a few mistakes. On the final day, when we were to visit Goechala summit 1, I hadn’t eaten properly and drunk enough water. I was dehydrated and weak and it started telling on my body and I really had to struggle to get to the summit.  I did an honest debrief of myself and realized that I had made some mistakes because of ignorance and negligence. I was also very tense and stressed about summiting and that made the trek more difficult for me. I also had mild symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness and all that made me doubt my capacity to do EBC. But when I did EBC, I drew on these past experiences and made sure that I was adequately prepared. I made sure I took medication (Diamox), I had energy bars and the right nutritional supplements, I drank enough water and kept myself in good spirits.

The other thing I was very particular about is that I would walk at a slow pace and take adequate rest. Most trekkers who are sensible and aware of the dangers of AMS do that. It is also very important to watch out for signs of altitude sickness (headache, nausea, dizziness etc) and immediately descend or call for a rescue helicopter if required.

Some members of my group took raw garlic and also drank garlic soup on a regular basis, as garlic is also an effective deterrent against AMS.

It is also important that you don’t get hit by a stomach bug and experience stomach pain or diarrhoea. I was particular that my stomach shouldn’t get upset, so stuck to Dal Bhaat, the Nepali classic of rice and daal and veggies and had a light breakfast.

What were the positives for you?

1.

This was my first trip to Nepal and the infrastructure was amazing. The tea houses, the trails, the facilities, the food, the clean toilets really helped to put a positive spin on the trek. There is also world of difference between staying in a tea house and a tent.  the walking everyday was fairly long, a minimum of six and a half to seven hours and body could recuperate faster in the tea house. 

It is very important to find a good trekking guide/ organization that will coordinate this for you. I did my research and asked other trekkers before I made a decision. The trekking company that I went with, were extremely professional and took very good care of us. Our guide was very good and supportive and motivated us to push ourselves and complete the trek. At the same time, he was careful to ensure that none of us suffered from AMS. 

3.     If you prepare for the trek and take all the necessary precautions (like taking medication, walking at a slow pace, drinking adequate water and making sure you are properly dressed) that are a must, you most certainly will complete the trek and also handle altitude without any challenges.

 
What is an absolute must on the trek?

Hmm....let me see. I would say

1.     A Down jacket

2.     A pulse oximeter to measure your oxygen levels

3.     Insurance that covers emergency medical evacuation by helicopter

4.     Diamox or medical equivalent

5.     Medication for an upset stomach

6.     Positive can-do Attitude

 

And finally, is the Everest Base Camp trek worth the hype?

This is an interesting question. (laughs…) Yes, it is definitely worth the hype. The views of Everest and other mountains such as Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Pumori etc are amazing if it is a clear day.  Seeing Everest from Kala Patthar is spectacular. The entire trek is very scenic and it constantly challenges you and is very demanding on your body and mind. The feeling of achievement at the end of the trek is tremendous. I worked really hard to be able to do this and it was well worth the amount of time, effort and focus that I put into it.

 

A Trek that takes your Breath Away - The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: A Conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan - Part II

 

In part II of this post, we continue our conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan (Raja) about their experiences on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek.  When someone walks with you by your side on a trek and that certain someone is a spouse, the crunch of their footsteps and the sound of their laboured breathing in accompaniment to yours, gives you the strength to keep going. And so, it is with Preeti and Raja. Read on.

On Day 3, you cross over the Gadsar Pass. Were you both prepared for it?

Preeti: We got up in the morning and our campsite looked magical. The contrast between the sky and the waters of the Vishansar Lake as we walked past it was amazing. It was going to be a long day. We were going to walk to Gadsar Pass which was at an altitude of 4200 meters or close to 13800 feet. The Vishansar Lake has a reflective surface like a mirror and we could see the mountains reflected in them. As we climbed up higher, we got a bird’s eye view of the Lake and we could see the clouds reflected in it. As we walked up, we could see a tiny little rivulet flowing past and our guide told us that it from the Kishansar lake, the next lake on our trek. Kishansar is about an hours walk away from Vishansar.

Raja: We then had to continue our climb upwards to get to the Gadsar Pass. From our camp we had 2000 feet climb, it was quite a feat. As we climbed higher and higher, we had to take several breaks.  But the views were spectacular. Now we could see the surrounding mountains being reflected in Kishansar Lake. And finally, we reached the Gadsar Pass at around noon. It is amazing to see two lakes behind and three lakes ahead. Many of our team were super fit trekkers and marathoners and it was amazing to see their high levels of energy. We relaxed for a bit and clicked many pictures and finally decided to move on. The descent was gentle but it kept going on forever. As we walked down, we spotted Yamsar lake. The meadows were pristine and there were beautiful alpine flowers everywhere, which were breathtaking. It was a very hot day and that made us more tired. The sheep with their heavy wool coats were standing next to any water holes that they could find.

Preeti: At 2pm we stopped to have our lunch and it was lovely to see the goats and the shepherds and horses around. And suddenly we were at the Gadsar Lake which was so stunning. It was, as the other lakes, fed by a glacier and there were patches of ice on it. The lake was surrounded by several beautiful flowers. But the tents were still quite a distance away. We reached camp at about 5 pm. We were tired but the surroundings were very soothing and beautiful.

Day 4 is a relatively easy trek day, isn’t it?

Raja: Day 4 again starts with hill climbing. We first had to cross a frozen stream and ascend on a narrow trail. Then the train flattens out and we walk through a meadow. We see the frozen stream we crossed, down below. That was  our starting point. As we walk along the steep green slopes, towards the right is the Gurez Valley, which is close to the Line of Control. part of which is administered by Pakistan. We eventually arrive at the Satsar lakes (7 lakes) consisting of several small lakes, flatish bodies, close to each other, with one stream feeding all.  Post lake and lunch, the trail was partially rocky. We gained a bit of altitude in getting to our camp. Overall, this was the easy day. It was 12 kms but not challenging.

Preeti: There were stretches where you had wild strawberries and the sheep used to hang around the path congregating around pools of water. The campsite was beautiful and we were in a valley ringed by mountains. We also had a few other trekkers at our camp side who came over to have a chat. It was good fun hanging around with them.

Day 5 was a very tough day, wasn’t it? The boulders must have been difficult to cross.

Preeti: Day 5 was particularly challenging. We were going from Satsar lake to Nandkol via the Zaj Pass. We started with a very rocky section of boulders. These boulders are huge and we had to clamber over them. It was a difficult section, but the guides were very helpful and were there to provide support if required. We saw a dead horse which had fallen off the boulders. It took us about 1.5 hours of climbing to get done with the boulders. After that we stopped for a well-deserved break and some trail snacks. We then progressed towards Zaj Pass which took another 60 minutes or so from the rocky patch. You can see an icy wall where steps have been cut, it’s like a glacier.  It perhaps divides the difficult sections of the trek from the now mostly downhill path.

Raja: At Zaj Pass it was cloudy, we couldn’t see Mt Harmukh or the twin lakes of Gangbal and Nandkul very clearly. After a long walk down, we reached a grassy meadow and then finally Gangbal Lake. It’s a huge lake and very beautiful. The waters are very soothing for tired feet. After a break, we walked a bit to its twin, the Nandkul Lake. Our camp was close by. We had two options, either cross the river, where the current was fairly strong and water was flowing at an intense speed or cross a plank bridge which requires tremendous balance. Preeti was able to cross the bridge but I had to cross the river with some help from the guides. There were stones underneath and it wasn’t easy. Some of the other trekkers in our group crossed two times, wanting to try both the plank and the water crossing. We finally reached the camp and got some well-deserved rest and relaxation. Here there is an option to spend an extra day here. This is mostly to compensate for any days lost enroute due to bad weather etc.

Day 6 was the last day. How did you both feel?

Preeti: We were sad that the trek was almost done, but also a sense of relief and pride that we had been able to trek through some of the most difficult sections without any injuries. The Nandkul Lake looked beautiful at Sunrise. But there was no letting up even on this last day. The initial walk of was easy, mainly grassy meadows with a gentle incline. Then we saw pine Forests. Here, the army post checked your identity cards. It was misty and the walk was pleasant. We could occasionally see the Wangath River in the distance.  Wangath River is a tributary of the Sind and meanders its way towards Naranag, our destination, a tourist village known for its ancient temple ruins. After this it was a steep downhill walk on a zig zag path. We descended over 4500 feet that day. We eventually reached Naranag and saw  a ruined 8^th Century temple which was spectacular. We took a vehicle from there back to Srinagar 

Would you recommend this trek for beginners?

Raja: We wouldn’t recommend this for beginners but for experienced trekkers who have done a few treks. There are patches that very tricky and difficult like the boulders section. Also, it requires an immense amount of walking which can be taxing and requires a lot of stamina and endurance.  One must also keep in mind that the entire trip is about 68 kms long. But it should be on every one’s bucket list.

Any tips for trekkers who want to do the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?

Preeti: Please wear long sleeved shirts or tops to keep your skin from burning as it can get very hot in July and August. Also, after a long day of trekking remember to dip your feet in icy cold water. It will instantly remove the pain and wear and tear that your feet have gone through.

Read Part I of my post on the Kashmir Great Lake trek here

A Trek that takes your Breath Away - The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: A Conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan - Part I

Preeti and Rajasekharan (Raja) are a couple that love the outdoors and trekking. I first met them when we did a trek to Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal and was motivated by their fitness levels and enthusiasm for the mountains. It was indeed a sight to see Preeti maintaining a steady pace and Raja falling closely behind with his long strides and easy gait. They work together as a team and if there were a quote that would best describe their journey together, it would be “your partner is both home and adventure all at once.”  

 Preeti and Raja recently completed the Kashmir Great Lakes trek (KGLT) and found it both exciting and challenging. Here, they share their experiences about this wondrous trek that takes your breath away (both literally and figuratively)

 

Before we get to your experiences trekking the KGLT, tell us a little bit about you got into trekking?

 

Preeti:  I have always loved the outdoors and travelling was something I was always interested in. When our children were young, they would go on day hikes and short trips, organised by a friend of ours. We would sometimes accompany them as parent volunteers.  We had friends who shared their trekking experiences and then we worked up the courage to go on a trek. Our first trek was to Roopkund with our son. It was a bit of a struggle because we were not prepared. We were not carrying the right clothing and it was difficult keeping up with the other young people on the trek. We also suffered from altitude sickness. We couldn’t complete it but really enjoyed the experience.  Since then, we have done several treks in India and Nepal, including Annapurna Base Camp and Goechala, and have done plenty of day hikes in and around Bangalore. We can easily say that KGLT was one of the most difficult treks we had done. 

 
Did you know about the Kashmir Great lakes trek, before you went on it?

 

Preeti:  We had heard about the trek and the beautiful vistas we would see and it was on our bucket list. Our friends who are avid trekkers had done the Tarsar Marsar trek and were keen on doing the Kashmir Great lakes trek after that. They approached us and asked us to join them for the trek in 2019. We had made our plans, but it was at that time that the Government announced the revocation of Article 370 and the announcement that Jammu and Kashmir would become a Union Territory.  We had to cancel our tickets and then decided to do it again in July of 2021, when the COVID restrictions were eased to some extent. This time it was a larger group of about 12 people.

What kind of preparations did you do for the Kashmir Great lakes Trip?

Raja: It was nothing out of the ordinary. We continued our walking near our residence, and focused on walking on inclined stretches. Besides that, we did our favourite hike, i.e., climbing Nandi Hills several times. (Nandi Hills, is a hill fortress outside Bangalore where Tipu Sultan 18th-century ruler, built his fort. The trekking at Nandi Hills stretches to about 1.5 kms and it is a good trek for beginners.). 

We climbed Nandi Hills on five consecutive weekends and we climbed up the 1200 steps not once but twice on each visit. This helped us gain the necessary stamina and fitness for the trek.

Preeti: I Our friends who organized the trek are very physically fit and used to regular follow up with us and other members of the trek regarding our fitness regimen and give us advice about the kind of exercises we need to do to enhance our endurance levels. I also read a few blogs to get some basic understanding of the trek and the difficulty level but did not watch YouTube videos and the like. I prefer to be surprised when I am on the trek.

Now, let’s talk about the trek. What was the starting point of the trek?

Raja: We landed before lunch time in Srinagar and made our way to Sonmarg. Kashmir has a beauty that is distinct from that of other Himalayan regions. The campsite was located at the entrance to Sonmarg and not at Shitkadi (the usual campsite). We were very lucky that our trek didn’t get cancelled or postponed because of the rains. We stayed in tents that the trekking guide had put up for us on a green patch located near the river. We had our tea and dinner, interacted with the guides, got a briefing on the schedule and went to sleep hoping that the weather would be in our favour throughout the trek and it did. Luckily for us, we had a window that was absolutely devoid of rain.  The other teams that had left a day or two before us had to abandon the trek.

Tell us about Day 1.  Was it an easy day like it is on most treks?

Preeti: We went from Sonmarg (7800 feet) to Nichnai (11500 feet). The first day itself was fairly tough. We started walking around 8am in the morning. The day was sunny and gradually it got hotter. We walked on a proper path and vistas around were green meadows, a beautiful sight. But there was a continuous incline which made it quite tough. The surroundings were a blanket of green, almost like a golf course. Did you know that the Salman Khan film” Bajrangi Baijaan “was shot here? There were several other groups walking with us.

Raja: As we climbed up, we walked along the River Sind. After a certain distance I looked back and could see Sonmarg below us. We ascended about 2500 feet from our starting point to reach Tabletop, where there was a small shop that sold tea, maggi and eggs. It took us about four hours to reach this point. On the way the rolling green meadows gave way to forests of maple, pine and silver birch.  We could see sheep and shepherd huts in the distance which would become a common sight in the coming days. Our guide told us an interesting story about Tabletop.   Apparently, during the Kargil war, the Kashmiri Shepherds observed a few strangers (Pakistani soldiers) dressed like them. They immediately got suspicious and informed the Indian Army about them.

We did not stay at tabletop but moved further towards Nichnai. Even here at times the path was rocky in places. We stopped at several places to take a rest and have our lunch too. We reached our d campsite at about 3 pm. The weather was very hot and I regretted not having full sleeves We finally reached our campsite and were exhausted. The surroundings though were beautiful and we camped along a river. On Day 1 we had walked over 13 kms. It was a relaxing evening and we had a simple but delicious meal of roti, sabzi, dal and dessert.

Day 2 is a trek from Nichnai (11, 500 feet) to Vishansar lake (12000 feet). You climb up to Nichnai pass (13,500 feet) and then walk on. Was that difficult?

Raja:  Day 2 was quite tough. We saw snow patches here and there. We had to cross a river but managed to cross over as there was an ice bridge. We saw a lot of towering snow-clad mountains. Nichnai pass was at 13500 feet and it took us almost two and a half hours to reach the pass. There was a lot of snow and icy patches in the vicinity of the Nichnai pass.

After the Pass, as we crossed into the next valley, it became a lot greener and we saw a multitude of flowers. Some among us who have been to the Valley of Flowers actually felt that there was more of a variety here. We stopped to have lunch and from there on it was a gentle walk. We finally saw the first lake of our trek, the Vishansar lake.

Preeti:  The Vishansar Lake is at an elevation of 3710 meters. Lake Vishansar means the lake of Vishnu, which is the source of Neelum river and this lake is known for its many fishes especially Trout.  People sometimes come here for fishing.  We could dip our tired feet in the cold water, sit on the shore and gaze at lake Vishansar. We reached our camp and then came back to the lake. The toilet tent at camp was placed very far away from the lake, about 500 feet from the camp site. We were so tired but the scenery was spectacular. We ate our dinner and fell asleep almost immediately. Tomorrow was Day 3 and it was going to be a tough trek to Gadsar Pass.

Photo Credits: Preeti/ Raja  Milind Chalisgaonkar

Read Part II of Preeti and Raja's experience on the Kashmir Great lakes Trek next week

Changing the definition of Trekking: An Interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part II

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part II of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector, what needs to be done to revive the sector and his advice for someone who wants to start a trekking operation post COVID.

How has trekking been impacted by COVID?

Its not just the trekking industry but the travel and tourism sector as a whole that has been impacted. Adventure tour operators and trekking outfit like mine have been impacted, but in essence its those who work in the tourism industry that have been affected the most are those who work on ground as guides, porters and ancillary staff. I have had to cancel many treks because of the pandemic and the people who have suffered the most are my staff who are locals. They are dependent on the seasonal work and it has made a huge dent in their earnings.

For me personally, it has been difficult because I have for the first time not been able to travel to the mountains and I have had serious withdrawal symptoms. I have personally dipped into my savings to support my staff and it hasn’t been easy. Between waves, we were able to take a few clients on treks but business did decrease substantially. I am keeping my fingers crossed that COVID will now become endemic in the population and we can slowly pick up the pieces.

Will the trekking industry be able to recover and attain pre COVID levels of success?

I do see a renewed boom in trekking.  Trekking as an activity has an inbuilt social distancing component. Trekkers in a trekking group as you will know, never travel together. The groups split into smaller sub groups of single trekkers or a group of two or three. There is limited conversation and people are trying to focus on conserving energy. It is a meditative activity, that gives you time to reflect on various issues.

How do you ensure that your treks are COVID compliant?

I primarily customized treks for homogenous groups of people who know each other – primarily consisting of family members and /or friends. I therefore ensure that people in the group are comfortable with each other and have no hesitancy in interacting with each other.

In addition, I am absolutely strict about all my trekking clients having double vaccination certificates and a COVID negative certificate (if the destination state mandates it). I am very particular and ensure that all staff including guides, drivers, cooks, horsemen, porters, and other ancillary staff are double vaccinated and test negative before a trek as well.  All COVID protocols are followed as per Government regulations of the state in which trek is located.

How can we as trekkers help to revive the industry? 

Avid trekkers and those who have been trekking pre COVID need no incentive to start trekking again. They are waiting for the third wave to recede and are already planning their trek.  To ensure that we encourage beginner trekkers to start on treks, we need to use social media as a tool to talk about the benefits of trekking in a post COVID scenario. We as trekkers and influencers need to write blog post and share visuals (images and YouTube videos) of the magnificent mountains. It is important to motivate people to do small treks even in the outskirts of their cities and towns as it may not always be easy to travel to Himalayas. 

How can trekking be a sustainable operation? 

There is no doubt that tourism as such brings in a tremendous amount of revenue and earnings. It is therefore very important that when the ecosystem is impacted, that the Government and other stakeholders’ step in and provide support.  

 My suggestions would be 

1. An insurance scheme for those who are seasonally employed in the tourism and trekking sector to ensure that they receive a fixed remuneration in the event of a climate induced calamity or pandemic.  

2. Provision of a fund to ensure that local operators and entrepreneurs are compensated in case of loss

3.   3. Ensure that all guides and associated staff who provide support on treks have a high school degree

4.    4. All guides and ancillary staff must be registered and have a bank account.

5.   5.  Capacity building workshops and free training in trekking and mountaineering and high-altitude rescue should be provided to locals in the Himalayan regions, so that trekking and other mountain related activities can be a viable income and livelihood opportunity

What would be your advice to a someone who wants to run a trekking and adventure tour operation?

I started a business from nothing and with no experience or knowledge of how to start a business. But I was lucky as there was very little competition at that time. Today, even during COVID times, there is plenty of competition. So, it is very important for a novice tour operator to study and understand the market, identify a strategy that is unique, raise resources. Getting into trekking apparel is also an attractive proposition.  Also, it is important that one is social media savvy or have the resource to hire someone who can take care of branding, packaging and market. These of course are general and pertain to any business. With trekking, it is particularly important that you understand the various trekking options on offer and how we can best curate these in accordance with client’s needs.

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

 

 

              

Changing the definition of trekking: An interview with Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades - Part I

Indranil Kar, traveller, trekker, photographer and founder of Ongoz Escapades lives by the adage " The mountains are calling and I must go.” Indranil’s first love and home are the Greater Himalayan Mountains. On any given day, Indranil can be seen leading a merry group of intrepid trekkers into the mountains, and curating experiences and memories that will last a life time. 

In Part 1 of our Interview with Indranil, we talk about his love for trekking, his favourite trekking journeys, his tips for beginner trekkers and his trekking venture Ongoz Escapades.
 

Tell us a little bit about your childhood and your first trekking experience

I was born in Kolkata. My father was in the Air Force and inculcated a sense of adventure in me from the time I was young. As a student of the Air Force school, I was often taken on short treks and excursions into the mountains. When I was in the eighth grade, a few of us, students and a teacher, had the opportunity to walk from Dehradun to Mussoorie. It was only a day’s walk but it changed me as a person. It was absolutely fascinating for me to be amidst nature and the mountains. The mountains have always been, not just a source of adventure, but also inspiration, harmony and tranquility.

How did that first trek make you feel?

It awakened within me the realization, even at that young age, that it was the journey that mattered and not the destination. After I reached Mussoorie, I was disappointed that I had reached my destination. The trekking journey was constantly on my mind. I realized that if you have to experience the environment and surroundings, you have to do it slowly and savour it. Walking provides you a holistic experience - the landscape, the air, the trees, the forests and the environment make it so much so much more meaningful.

How did you decide that you wanted trekking to become an occupation and not just a hobby?

I did several treks after my first trek. My first long trek was to Kedarnath with my relatives. It took me two days and I had to carry my own luggage, but it convinced me that this was what I was meant to do. I also trekked to Dzongri (a pitstop on the Goechala trek) and I fell in love with the journey. I have done the Goechala trek 35 times till now and every time is like the first time.  

I took up a corporate job, but  would always wait for the time that I could take leave and travel to the mountains. But that brief period of leave, was too short a time for me. In 2004, I decided that I didn’t want to work in the corporate sector any more, that was not my way of life. I had done several basic and advanced mountaineering courses from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and this gave me an in-depth knowledge about the nature of mountains, and the type of terrain we need to cover, the various  challenges one may face and the type of weather systems one encounters on treks. Most importantly, it taught me about search and rescue and how to lead a lead and coordinate a trek. I felt that I should put my trekking experience and mountaineering skills to good use and decided to start my own trekking company and guide people on treks.
 

What is the most difficult trek that you have done?

Difficulty is a subjective term and it varies depending on the trekker’s physical fitness, stamina, endurance level and technical skills, of course the prevailing weather conditions in the region where one is trekking. For me, the most challenging were the Khalindi Khal  and Green Lake treks. Khalindi starts from Gangotri and ends in Badrinath. It is a trekking expedition which is difficult under the best of circumstances and involves a walk over rough glaciers, rocky screens, and crevassed snowfields. The Green Lake trek, which is the original base camp of Kanchenjunga in North Sikkim has a seven to eight km moraine stretch with no proper path. It is a treacherous and dangerous walk as it involves walking between the boulders. It should only be undertaken by trekkers who have done at least seven to eight high altitude treks at over 5000 meters. I was also once trapped in the snow for two days because of an avalanche, while I was doing the Goechala trek.

What is a trek you’ve always wanted to go on?

 The Trek that I have always wanted to do, but may never materialize is the K2 basecamp trek in Gilgit Baltistan region in Pakistan. Another trek that I couldn’t finish was the Snowman’s trek in Bhutan. It’s a 24-day trek, and I had to bring back a sick trekker after three to four days, as I was a guide on that trek. I hope to do that trek someday. I also want to do the trek from Phalut to Dzongri called the Damphebir La trek where the trail runs parallel to the border with Nepal and some spectacular mountains such as Koktang, Ratong, Kabru and Talung can be seen with the Kanchenjunga Massif in the background. Damphebir is also called a Devil's Pass. The top of the Pass is a famous viewpoint - it gives a panoramic view of Mt Everest towards the left and Mt Kanchenjunga range towards the right. The viewpoint is also surrounded by six alpine lakes at its base. I hope to do these when I get some free time. 

What is the first trek, a trekker should go on?

There are many  treks that are relatively easy and suitable for a first time time trekker, but one of my favourites is the Sandakphu trek. (For more information on Sandakphu, read my blog post on moderate treks.) I have done Sandakphu 98 times with my clients and for many it is their first trek. They have always enjoyed that first experience which introduces them to trekking in a gentle manner. The Sandakphu trek offers the comforts of home like a good comfortable bed, and excellent food at home stays. This is akin to the tea house concept in Nepal. The introduction to trekking therefore is gradual. The journey requires a maximum of six hours of walking per day and the inclines are gradual and the path is easy. And finally, when they reach Sandakphu and see the sleeping Buddha and some of the greatest mountains in the world including Mount Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga and Pandim, it is the best feeling in the world.  Trekkers who enjoy Sandakphu and are able to complete it are now ready for the next level of trekking experiences which can include camping in tents and using a sleeping bag.

What is your advice to first time trekkers?

 

This is a very pertinent question and I would like to mention three key points, that should be ingrained in a trekker’s mind psyche

1. Safety first, glory if possible –It is very important to listen to your guide or tour operator and not make choices that are risky and dangerous. While it is exhilarating to reach your destination, it is important that you should take all necessary precautions and prioritize safety of both yourself and your trekking companions first, before anything else. 

2. Respect the mountains: When we approach the mountain with folded hands and pure love and respect, the mountain welcomes us. If you are only able to go up to a certain point and then return, accept this as the will of the mountain and respect the Mighty Messiah’s command. Every step that we take on its slopes, is a privilege, and permission that has been accorded to us. 

3. Accept and be grateful for all that the mountains give you:  In trekking, it is important to understand your surroundings and that it is never about conquering the mountain, but experiencing all that it offers.  It is never about reaching the destination, but instead experiencing the journey and taking the time to savour and internalize the experience.

 You have taken some truly wonderful photographs while trekking? When and how did you develop your skills in photography and what would be your tips for budding photographers?

 

My father was an ardent photographer and he inculcated in me a love for the DSLR camera and interest in nature photography. A lot of my images were taken while I trekked. Over the years I have invested in photography equipment and am a self- taught photographer.

I have a few simple tips for trekkers who want to take good photographs on their treks

1.     Keep your gear light: Use equipment that do not add considerable extra weight to your trekking equipment. Mirrorless cameras for example, are much lighter. There are several phones with good cameras. Invest in these if you do not want to carry a DSLR camera.

2.     Make use of the light: Choose a time before 9am and after 4pm to shoot as the light in the mountains is best during this period.

3.     Research and amplify your technical skills: There is a lot of information available online and it is important to talk to experts.  Understand the exposure triangle and select the right lens based on what you want to shoot

4.     Study and practice composition: An object can be visualized in many ways and composition makes all the difference. Study the work of professional photographers to understand composition and framing

5.     Choose your locations: Treks provide a variety of locales with spectacular scenery and there is no better way to shoot the mountains than when you are trekking.

6.     Be creative: Photography is a form of art and it is not enough to just have technical skills but also important to have a creative bent of mind to see an image in an unique manner.

Tell us about Ongoz Escapades and how it is different from other trekking companies?

The name Ongoz comes from the Onge tribe which is, indigenous to the Andaman Islands. It can also be read as "On Goes" which denotes continuity. Ongoz offers an immersive experience for people who want to trek and provides a certain comfort factor to trekkers so that the journey becomes a little easier for them. I change the definition of trekking for trekkers who are beginners and are completely inexperienced about the wilderness, by providing certain basic luxuries and acting as a mentor and guide to help them get the best out of such an experience. 

I don’t advertise or market my treks and my organisation via social media or other channels. I rely solely on word-of-mouth references from my clients who have enjoyed the trekking experiences that I have provided. I also don't have fixed departures and prefer to customise my treks for an individual or a group in accordance with their needs. 

For more information on Ongoz Escapades go to 

https://www.facebook.com/ongozescapades/

https://www.instagram.com/indranil__kar/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCip1dBWL1NLfe3pGSDHxPgQ

Photo credit: Indranil Kar

 Please check out Indranil’s photographs at www.rovingeyes.com. 

Do remember to check out part 2 next week, where we talk to Indranil about how COVID has impacted the trekking sector and his forecast for the trekking industry post COVID.