A Trek that takes your Breath Away - The Kashmir Great Lakes Trek: A Conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan - Part II

 

In part II of this post, we continue our conversation with Preeti and Rajasekharan (Raja) about their experiences on the Kashmir Great Lakes trek.  When someone walks with you by your side on a trek and that certain someone is a spouse, the crunch of their footsteps and the sound of their laboured breathing in accompaniment to yours, gives you the strength to keep going. And so, it is with Preeti and Raja. Read on.

On Day 3, you cross over the Gadsar Pass. Were you both prepared for it?

Preeti: We got up in the morning and our campsite looked magical. The contrast between the sky and the waters of the Vishansar Lake as we walked past it was amazing. It was going to be a long day. We were going to walk to Gadsar Pass which was at an altitude of 4200 meters or close to 13800 feet. The Vishansar Lake has a reflective surface like a mirror and we could see the mountains reflected in them. As we climbed up higher, we got a bird’s eye view of the Lake and we could see the clouds reflected in it. As we walked up, we could see a tiny little rivulet flowing past and our guide told us that it from the Kishansar lake, the next lake on our trek. Kishansar is about an hours walk away from Vishansar.

Raja: We then had to continue our climb upwards to get to the Gadsar Pass. From our camp we had 2000 feet climb, it was quite a feat. As we climbed higher and higher, we had to take several breaks.  But the views were spectacular. Now we could see the surrounding mountains being reflected in Kishansar Lake. And finally, we reached the Gadsar Pass at around noon. It is amazing to see two lakes behind and three lakes ahead. Many of our team were super fit trekkers and marathoners and it was amazing to see their high levels of energy. We relaxed for a bit and clicked many pictures and finally decided to move on. The descent was gentle but it kept going on forever. As we walked down, we spotted Yamsar lake. The meadows were pristine and there were beautiful alpine flowers everywhere, which were breathtaking. It was a very hot day and that made us more tired. The sheep with their heavy wool coats were standing next to any water holes that they could find.

Preeti: At 2pm we stopped to have our lunch and it was lovely to see the goats and the shepherds and horses around. And suddenly we were at the Gadsar Lake which was so stunning. It was, as the other lakes, fed by a glacier and there were patches of ice on it. The lake was surrounded by several beautiful flowers. But the tents were still quite a distance away. We reached camp at about 5 pm. We were tired but the surroundings were very soothing and beautiful.

Day 4 is a relatively easy trek day, isn’t it?

Raja: Day 4 again starts with hill climbing. We first had to cross a frozen stream and ascend on a narrow trail. Then the train flattens out and we walk through a meadow. We see the frozen stream we crossed, down below. That was  our starting point. As we walk along the steep green slopes, towards the right is the Gurez Valley, which is close to the Line of Control. part of which is administered by Pakistan. We eventually arrive at the Satsar lakes (7 lakes) consisting of several small lakes, flatish bodies, close to each other, with one stream feeding all.  Post lake and lunch, the trail was partially rocky. We gained a bit of altitude in getting to our camp. Overall, this was the easy day. It was 12 kms but not challenging.

Preeti: There were stretches where you had wild strawberries and the sheep used to hang around the path congregating around pools of water. The campsite was beautiful and we were in a valley ringed by mountains. We also had a few other trekkers at our camp side who came over to have a chat. It was good fun hanging around with them.

Day 5 was a very tough day, wasn’t it? The boulders must have been difficult to cross.

Preeti: Day 5 was particularly challenging. We were going from Satsar lake to Nandkol via the Zaj Pass. We started with a very rocky section of boulders. These boulders are huge and we had to clamber over them. It was a difficult section, but the guides were very helpful and were there to provide support if required. We saw a dead horse which had fallen off the boulders. It took us about 1.5 hours of climbing to get done with the boulders. After that we stopped for a well-deserved break and some trail snacks. We then progressed towards Zaj Pass which took another 60 minutes or so from the rocky patch. You can see an icy wall where steps have been cut, it’s like a glacier.  It perhaps divides the difficult sections of the trek from the now mostly downhill path.

Raja: At Zaj Pass it was cloudy, we couldn’t see Mt Harmukh or the twin lakes of Gangbal and Nandkul very clearly. After a long walk down, we reached a grassy meadow and then finally Gangbal Lake. It’s a huge lake and very beautiful. The waters are very soothing for tired feet. After a break, we walked a bit to its twin, the Nandkul Lake. Our camp was close by. We had two options, either cross the river, where the current was fairly strong and water was flowing at an intense speed or cross a plank bridge which requires tremendous balance. Preeti was able to cross the bridge but I had to cross the river with some help from the guides. There were stones underneath and it wasn’t easy. Some of the other trekkers in our group crossed two times, wanting to try both the plank and the water crossing. We finally reached the camp and got some well-deserved rest and relaxation. Here there is an option to spend an extra day here. This is mostly to compensate for any days lost enroute due to bad weather etc.

Day 6 was the last day. How did you both feel?

Preeti: We were sad that the trek was almost done, but also a sense of relief and pride that we had been able to trek through some of the most difficult sections without any injuries. The Nandkul Lake looked beautiful at Sunrise. But there was no letting up even on this last day. The initial walk of was easy, mainly grassy meadows with a gentle incline. Then we saw pine Forests. Here, the army post checked your identity cards. It was misty and the walk was pleasant. We could occasionally see the Wangath River in the distance.  Wangath River is a tributary of the Sind and meanders its way towards Naranag, our destination, a tourist village known for its ancient temple ruins. After this it was a steep downhill walk on a zig zag path. We descended over 4500 feet that day. We eventually reached Naranag and saw  a ruined 8^th Century temple which was spectacular. We took a vehicle from there back to Srinagar 

Would you recommend this trek for beginners?

Raja: We wouldn’t recommend this for beginners but for experienced trekkers who have done a few treks. There are patches that very tricky and difficult like the boulders section. Also, it requires an immense amount of walking which can be taxing and requires a lot of stamina and endurance.  One must also keep in mind that the entire trip is about 68 kms long. But it should be on every one’s bucket list.

Any tips for trekkers who want to do the Kashmir Great Lakes trek?

Preeti: Please wear long sleeved shirts or tops to keep your skin from burning as it can get very hot in July and August. Also, after a long day of trekking remember to dip your feet in icy cold water. It will instantly remove the pain and wear and tear that your feet have gone through.

Read Part I of my post on the Kashmir Great Lake trek here