Three Moderate Treks for a beginner in the Indian Himalayas

As promised,  here are three moderate treks to do in the Indian Himalayas.  I have been on all three treks and got this list vetted by Indranil Kar of Ongoz Escapades, a veteran trekker and guide who has been on over 300 treks in India and Nepal. These treks are classified as moderate or moderate plus by most trekking companies but could be  ‘moderately easy’ or ‘moderately difficult’ for some depending on their fitness levels and endurance capabilities. 

Sandhakpu Trek

Distance: 47 kms
Duration: 6 days
Maximum Altitude : 11, 950 feet
Best time to Visit : October to January for clear views

Do you know that the name Sandakphu means the Height of the poison Plant, a  direct reference to the many Aconite plants that grow near its peak? But contrary to its name, the Sandakphu trek is a very enjoyable trek where you get to see amazing vista that you don’t see in other treks.  Sandakphu is located in Darjeeling District at an altitude of 11,941ft and is the highest peak in West Bengal. Indranil who has done this trek 97 times puts it very aptly when he says “ Sandakphu is like the balcony seat of Nature’s wonder land from where you can see four eight thousanders of the world”. And indeed, if you are lucky and it is a clear day, you can see the Himalayan greats - Mount Everest, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse and Makalu. These mountains and a few others join to form the Sleeping Buddha, a chain of mountain ranges, that resemble a man lying on his back with his head , stomach and feet seen.

This trek is along the Singalila range and is also known as the Singalila trek. The total trekking distance is 47 kms and and you walk through amazing forests with rhododendrons, magnolias and a huge variety of orchids. The trail starts from Manebhanjan, go towards Tumling, and then you enter the Singalila  National Park. From here it’s on to Kalpokri , a very quaint village, and further a slightly steep climb to Sandakphu. The main advantage of this trek is that you have small lodges and home stays along the way with basic accomodation facilities , sometimes even Western toilets ( Hurray!).this trek crosses over from India into Nepal and then back into India again Andy you’ve actually done a trek in two countries. And if you are  very lucky, you may spot the Red Panda, which happens to be a native of the region.

The Valley of Flowers Trek 

Distance: 38 kms

Duration: 4 days

Maximum Altitude : 10500 -11500 feet (VOF) 15200 feet (Hemkund sahib)

Best time to Visit : June to September (during the monsoons)

This was my first trek and therefore my favourite. I won’t lie, it was a challenging trek for a beginner.  However if you prepare for it, it is an enjoyable and breathtaking trek.  The unique aspect of the trek is that you need to do it during the monsoons ( June to September) which adds a certain element of excitement and enthusiasm. The monsoons brings alive the beauty of the lush green vegetation and the flora that you see are the most rare and exotic of them all.  Do read up on the rare Himalayan species that you will be able to find there like the blue poppy, the Brahma Kamal and the cobra lily and many others. Getting back to the trek, it covers a distance of 38 kms and one has to traverse the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve to get to the Valley of Flowers National Park. The 14 KM trek to Gangaria with many ups and downs may seem intimidating for a beginner.  In 2014, when we did the trek the the paths were still ravaged by the floods from the previous year. But I’m told it’s  motorable now for a distance of 4 kms now and that clearly makes you less tired by the end of the day.  Just before you reach Gangaria you pass a wall of mountains on your left and that is when the enormity of the mountains surrounding you, makes you feel humble and in awe of these giants.

The walk from Gangaria to the the Valley of Flowers National Park is spectacular and is not too strenuous. In the Valley one sees vast meadows of alpine flowers and thick forests. This is also home to rare and endangered animals including the Asiatic Black Bear, Snow Leopard, Musk Deer, Blue Sheep and many others. You cannot spend the night in the valley and have to come back to Gangaria. 

An addendum to this is the trek to Hemkund Sahib, a Sikh shrine located at 4633 metres or 15200 feet. You gain 4000 feet in 6 kms.  Don’t do this unless you are mentally prepared for a gruelling uphill climb where there is no respite from the incline. Also do remember that will be a high altitude climb and that you may be affected by altitude sickness.  But if you are determined to do this, it is well worth the climb. As you move on, you see many devout Sikhs irrespective of age and gender making this journey with steely resolve. The Gurudwara and the lake near it formed by glacier melt is breathtaking. 

Rain can be a constant companion, so remember to carry your rain ponchos. And remember to take it easy and slow so that you might enjoy this magnificent landscape of wildflowers. This trek and its awe inspiring scenery will be forever imprinted in your memory.

Kedarkantha Trek

Distance: 23 kms

Duration:  4 days

Maximum Altitude : 12,500 feet

Best time to Visit: December to April (winter)/ April to June ( summer)

If you want to summit a peak on your very first trek, then give Kedarkantha a try.  It is not to be confused with Kedarnath, a famous temple destination in the Himalayas, the trek is of six days duration and is located in the Govind Pashu Vihar Park of Uttarakhand. The climb starts from a small village called Sankri which is a day’ s drive from Dehradun. The key advantage of this trek is that it can be done both in summers and winters. The Winter trek is exciting and challenging as you walk in snow and experience temperatures between 3 degree Celsius and well below freezing. 

At the end of the first day, you camp at a pond called Juda Ka Talab ( two ponds linked together). The local folklore is that Lord Shiva meditated atop Kedarkantha and a droplet from his hair fell below and formed the pond known as Juda Ka Talab. It is also believed that Shiva in the form of a bull sought refuge here to escape from the Pandavas and meditated in the valley but was disturbed by locals and shifted to Kedarnath. The Trishul atop the peak is to protect the Valley and its residents. 

As you trek upwards from the lake, you walk across pristine snow covered meadows with clear views of snow clad mountains. The trek to the Base camp at 11250 feet is above the snow line and you may need gaiters, a protective covering made of water proof material  for the ankle and lower leg to keep snow out of your boots. At the Kedarkantha Base camp, you can either camp in tents or choose to spend the night in a Shepherd’s Hut. The temperatures can go down to -14 or -15 degrees C, so ensure that you are well protected. The next day you leave early, a few hours before sunset before sunrise, with head lamps to show the way. The climb is challenging and it can take you anywhere between four to six hours to summit depending on your pace and stamina. You get an astounding view from the summit (12500 feet) and can see peaks like Swargarohini, Kalanag, Bandarpunch mountains, along with Rupin and Har ki Dun valleys. The descent down can be tough on the knees and people sometimes slide down on the snow slopes using their rain ponchos. A hot meal and tea is waiting for you at  the Base Camp. This winter trek is like no other and even if you have to live in the same clothes for five days, believe me, it’s worth the discomfort.

All of these treks should be in your bucket list. But take your time and prepare both physically and mentally for these treks. Don’t underestimate the effort involved and the challenges that you will face, and start with one trek per year. This will fuel your interest and inclination  to move on to more physically challenging treks. Do read my next post on how to prepare for a moderate trek.